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When you pull the back case off a 6G, most of the solder joints are available for inspection. I haven't seen any questionable joints yet, though I haven't been through a whole lot of them. I used to have a NASA soldering certificate, and I can pretty-well tell a good one from bad.
However, you are quite correct, bad solder DOES occur sometimes, and yes, sometimes it's intermittent, making it a BEAR to find!
I would maintain, still, that a diagnosis of, ".... showing signs it is going out" is pure bunk, and not worthy of recognition!
Obviously with the batt light flashing something is wrong. And after all the other people have said their alt went out after seeing this I've decided to not take any chances. But I'm wondering wouldn't it be possible when testing that the alternator was charging and then stopped and then started again?? Would that be a cause for concern?
But I'm wondering wouldn't it be possible when testing that the alternator was charging and then stopped and then started again?? Would that be a cause for concern?
Of course, and an alternator that doesn't recover quickly, or overcharges for a few seconds, or doesn't start charging as quick as it should, or needs more RPMs to bring up the voltage, or a whole bunch of other things that I've seen with the Ford line of alternators is possible.
One bad diode can cause all sorts of issues, and yet, the alternator as a unit will continue to charge and never blink that idiot light.
I've seen plenty of alternators that were "showing signs it is going out". They don't just either work or not-work.
You're right. The alternator can be operating but perhaps not within specification. I'm just suspicious that the alternator tested fine and that's why the salesperson gave you no explanation. But it's not my truck and I'm just the suspicious type anyway.
i would try to get it replaced quickly. my battery light started going on and off, i ordered another alternator. got it installed about two weeks after the light started initially flashing. well, i just had to replace the ficm on the truck. i am not a mechanic, but i have read that others have had issues that seemed as if driving with a faulty altnernator caused ficm problems.
(we were talking about rebuilders and rebuilt alternators)
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"If they're any good, you'll most likely end up with a much more reliable unit as a result. The key elements are:
"The best lubricant in the best-quality bearings.
A high-quality regulator/brush assembly (and there are some cheap-o's out there).
A well-balanced rotor with good commutator rings.
"Diodes, unless you've abused the alternator, don't normally fail, and can be re-used if they check OK.
"If the rebuilder pays attention to this stuff, you'll get a good one. Unfortunately, custom rebuilders are becoming like buggy-whip manufacturers.
"Most are high-volume shops that use cheap labor and cheap parts. It's why a LOT of the parts-house rebuilds have a considerably-lower MTBF."
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So......
What do YOU think makes for a "quality" rebuild? Would you add or subtract anything? Any additional comments?
Obviously with the batt light flashing something is wrong. And after all the other people have said their alt went out after seeing this I've decided to not take any chances. But I'm wondering wouldn't it be possible when testing that the alternator was charging and then stopped and then started again?? Would that be a cause for concern?
If you have a light flashing then your alternator is on its last legs.
If you think you are having a problem chances are you do.
I read the original post as he just decide to have it checked and was told Signs of going bad.Op didnt mention any other problems.
If you are having a flickering light ,headl lights going bright and dim or low voltage then by all means have it replaced.but if everything seems normal why spend money when its not necessary.
Had the alternator tested and they say at the moment it is still good but showing signs it is going out. Where can I get an affordable replacement that is also an upgrade for the charging amps?
Thanks!
Nothing is affordable any more... I agree they either work or dont. Irregular diode pattern, weak voltage reg. There statement is inline with an Auto zone sales tactic. They didnt say exactly what was going bad did they?? like low voltage ect?
NAPA is my choice... Lifetime warranty, and have bigger units. You might also check with a local limo shop... those things use alot of juice, and ussually, when sent to the conversion shop, are outfitted with dual setups. I have used DB, and they are reputable. Most big cities have starter and alternator rebuilders, and they will take your old one and do what ever you want.
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