Trouble separating steering linkage
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Des Moines
Trouble separating steering linkage
I'm trying to replace the seal around the sector shaft on my 91 F-150 5.8L and am having difficulty separating the tie rods at the tie rod ball stud. I'm thinking that they're just frozen together after 135k worth of driving, but maybe I'm not using the correct method.
I don't have any gear pullers of any kind [or the money to buy one right now], so that's not an option for me. So far I've tried rotating a wide chisel between the tie rods with a big crescent wrench; I've also tried screwing the castellated nut on backwards and using a hammer to tap on it. No luck- they aren't budging.
What suggestions do you guys have? And while we're at it, I'll take some ideas on separating the pitman arm and drag link just in case those are gonna be a bunch of beetches too. My wife is out running errands right now so I called her to have her pick up some penetrating oil, and I'll keep trying while I'm waiting, but I'm sure you guys know some things I don't.
By the way, the wheels are currently set straight ahead if that makes any difference.
I don't have any gear pullers of any kind [or the money to buy one right now], so that's not an option for me. So far I've tried rotating a wide chisel between the tie rods with a big crescent wrench; I've also tried screwing the castellated nut on backwards and using a hammer to tap on it. No luck- they aren't budging.
What suggestions do you guys have? And while we're at it, I'll take some ideas on separating the pitman arm and drag link just in case those are gonna be a bunch of beetches too. My wife is out running errands right now so I called her to have her pick up some penetrating oil, and I'll keep trying while I'm waiting, but I'm sure you guys know some things I don't.
By the way, the wheels are currently set straight ahead if that makes any difference.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,346
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From: Baltimore
All you need to separate is the ball stud joint that goes from the drag link to the pitman arm.
The ball stud joint is a tapered fit. So it can be difficult to break the joint loose. You can use a pickle fork and a small sledge hammer to pound the pickle fork which has a wedge shape. You usually will tear the rubber ball stud cover but most auto part stores sell replacements.
The other tool you need is the proper size pitman arm puller. As far as I know there are two different pitman arm puller sizes.
The pitman arm is keyed so you can't reinstall it in the wrong position.
If you don't have the proper tools it's going to be a long day.
If you have an Autozone near you, they rent the pickle fork and pitman arm puller. You leave a deposit and when you return the tools in good shape, they refund the deposit.
The ball stud joint is a tapered fit. So it can be difficult to break the joint loose. You can use a pickle fork and a small sledge hammer to pound the pickle fork which has a wedge shape. You usually will tear the rubber ball stud cover but most auto part stores sell replacements.
The other tool you need is the proper size pitman arm puller. As far as I know there are two different pitman arm puller sizes.
The pitman arm is keyed so you can't reinstall it in the wrong position.
If you don't have the proper tools it's going to be a long day.
If you have an Autozone near you, they rent the pickle fork and pitman arm puller. You leave a deposit and when you return the tools in good shape, they refund the deposit.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Thanks for the tips, but I've already got it taken care of. I did remove the tie rod ball joint because it looked to me like that had to be done in order to separate the drag link. I ended up renting a tie rod remover and pitman arm puller from the parts store to get the job done. All that's left to do is replace the seals and put 'er back together.
Thanks tho.
Thanks tho.
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