need break help
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 48
From: Middle TN
I would do like Bullitt390 says and adjust the rear brakes(very important)
Next I would crack open the fittings to the MC while you have a friend pump the brakes.
Then I would follow the rear brake line to the next fitting (proportion valve) and open it, pump brakes and see if you have fluid at that point.
If you do each fitting in the line in the order you come to them, you will know and locate where your problem is.
Your last fitting to check will be the right rear wheel cylinder.
Next I would crack open the fittings to the MC while you have a friend pump the brakes.
Then I would follow the rear brake line to the next fitting (proportion valve) and open it, pump brakes and see if you have fluid at that point.
If you do each fitting in the line in the order you come to them, you will know and locate where your problem is.
Your last fitting to check will be the right rear wheel cylinder.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC,HighrockLake
the fluid is not going down when i pump the BRAKES im using the mityvac and still no fluid im getting fluid to the front calipers but still no BRAKES i did bench bleed the mc and still no pedal
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 59
You'll need to do what 4x4bart suggested and crack fittings and go down the line and see where the fluid is stopping.
I know some have success with the mityvac, my opinion is it is a waste of time.
Josh
I know some have success with the mityvac, my opinion is it is a waste of time.
Josh
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 739
Likes: 1
Pump up the brakes (have a helper) and crack the line at the master cylinder itself while under "pressure" (foot on pedal) If that's good? You should get a nice stream of fluid coming out of the master cylinder until the pedal hits the floor---do NOT have your helper release the pedal until you've tightened the flare fitting after each pedal 'pumping' test!! (it'll backfill the unit with air)
Now if you have decent flow and pressure at the master cylinder? Go to the combination valve and repeat----repeat right down the line until the problem kicks in.
Now if you've done the first step, and got nothing out of the master cylinder? That's where your problem is. If it's good? Work down the line(s). Also do NOT assume squat with any rubber parts. I've actually found idiot past owners that dumped in P/S fluid into the brake system---and that destroys the rubber parts. From the outside the hoses looked good? But the innards where gutted up and it was blocking the flow.
S-
Now if you have decent flow and pressure at the master cylinder? Go to the combination valve and repeat----repeat right down the line until the problem kicks in.
Now if you've done the first step, and got nothing out of the master cylinder? That's where your problem is. If it's good? Work down the line(s). Also do NOT assume squat with any rubber parts. I've actually found idiot past owners that dumped in P/S fluid into the brake system---and that destroys the rubber parts. From the outside the hoses looked good? But the innards where gutted up and it was blocking the flow.
S-
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New User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Lexington NC,HighrockLake
the problem is in the prop valve i have put new wheel cyl. brake pads the rubber hose all new hardware new lines from the wheel cyl. to the rubber hose took the main line from the prop valve to the rear and blew them out i still cant get fluid from the valve from the rear line do i need to bleed the prop valve if so how do i do it im almost to the point of burning it
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 3
From: Halifx Pa
I wold say try Dennis Capernter, LMC, Big blue oval, any of these on line sites should be able to asisit you.
I see your frustration level rising, but be patient, you will get it in due time!
PS: Also check Auto Zone, NAPA etc,.
I see your frustration level rising, but be patient, you will get it in due time!
PS: Also check Auto Zone, NAPA etc,.
