Okay. Well I am doing work right now so I will be in and out but ill give a quick run down of what happened and so far where im at.

First off I tried to start the car after sitting for a few months since I didnt have the time. Car started up but when release the key to ON the engine would stall out. Holding the key slightly forward after starting the engine would stay running. I figured it was the starter relay on the fender since thats what it was on my 63 when it did the same thing the solenoid was killing juice to the ignition in the on position. Well I picked the relay up but things came up like usual so car sat for another 3 months till now. I put it on charged the battery up and theres a grinding humming noise. Come to find out starter froze up so put the transmission in 1st gear and used truck to push it broke the starter loose. Engine starts up and runs like its dieseling and the starter keeps spinning. So replaced the starter and got it installed a hour ago. Get it all hooked up same thing. So I figured like this ford parts specalist here told me I figured i guess it is the ignition starter switch behind the dashboard.

Well took it apart and found it on the column and the plastic peice that is clamped by the iron assembly was loose so I push it back up into place and used screwdriver to knock the metal clamp back over and lock it back in place. After doing that now every time the battery is connected the starter starts to humm without the clutch being pressed in and the key not even in the ignition.

So I figure its bad and needs to be replaced. I found advance has onef or $11 but my problem is I cant get it off. I dont know what the tool is called. Its a star bit bolt but it appears the star bit wrench needs to be hollow in the middle for the pin to fit in.

So if anyone knows the name of that tool let me know.

Furhtermore if what I describ sounds like the ignition switch is fauxed up let me know also cause I hate to replace it and its something else. One reasion why I hate electrical on new cars (1980 and newer computer equipped cars)

 

The fender mounted relay should have two large terminals and two small, I assume? A heavy gauge wire comes from the battery pos. post to one of the large terminals and another heavy wire goes from the other large terminal direct to the starter solenoid. One of the light gauge wires should also go direct to the starter solenoid. Now the other light gauge wire should be coming from the ign switch, pull it off the relay. Does the starter still run? If not then it would sound like a bad ign switch. If the starter does run then the relay is probably bad.
I am not an electrics expert but that may give you some pointers untill some of the experts chime in.

 

A quick look at the FACTORY wiring diagrams would have told you from the get go that there was nothing wrong with the starter relay or the starter.

Ditto to what Lazy K mentioned.

The red/light blue stripe wire at the starter relay should have voltage to it ONLY when the key is turned to start.

You need to make sure your new starter relay is wired correctly & then replace the ignition switch.

The last ign switch that I replaced was on my 87 Ranger & it also had those "theft proof" screws. I removed them with a pair of pliers.

 

only book I have on the car is a chiltons and it doesnt even cover the ignition switch its a old book but I looked through it and didnt find it but I got it solved. The starter how ever needed to be replaced it was locked up. After I took it off I hooked the battery cahrger to it did nothing but spark and hum but no spinning action. The starter relay its no big deal the starter box had papers saying its recomended to change the relay when you change the starter. I got the wrenches to get it off and replaced it still did the same thing so I took and unpluged that small wire and crushed the fitting down some so it fits tighter problem solved so it was a combination of the slip on wire not fitting tight enough and the ignition starter switch. Engine actually starts up and runs and doesnt stall out like it did before when the key was released to on. I also got radio and the led lights to work on the system status panel when in acc. Before it didnt when this problem arose.

 

As they say a picture is worth a thousand words, but the pictures/wiring diagrams in a Haynes or Chiltons are pretty much worthless.

The part of the ignition switch that was giving you grief is wired to the ignition coil, main relay & dash gauges. Thats why it would'nt stay running when you released the key.

Congrats on the fix, glad you got it squared away.

 

I prefer the old factory manuals but I havent found any Ford 1988 Ford shop manuals. I got the 6 volume set for my 78 mercury from ford for $20, and I got the three volume set for my 56. But the engine runs good though so I just need to get three new tires on it take it to get some gas in it and hope no cops around then think bout getting it painted and the vinyl dashboard repaired.

I thought bout painting the car myself since I have a soda blaster but I could get macco to put a cheap $200 paint job on it for the time being or spend $200 in paint and do it myself.