Where are the codes stamped on the spring?

 

Dan, I think x-code is just for the door sticker. There is a part # stamped on the rear of the spring though.

 

Dan, your 550 should have X codes. You may measure from the center of the hub, to the bottom of the fender, to give new people a reference measurement.

 

How hard would it be to change out these springs? Is this unbolt, drop the old and bolt up the new? Or is it not that easy without special tools?

 

Yep, its pretty much that easy, except for taking the truck in for an alignment after changing the springs. always use new U-bolts, and remember, that front axle is pretty friggin heavy.

 

I think the "unbolt" is the hard part depending on how cruddy, rusty, and stuck everything is.

 

That's what I was thinking too, because my truck is so heavy.
I'll check next time I have the truck out.

 

I just replaced my V codes up front (busted a leaf off-roading in the desert). It was more of a pain than it looks. I tried to avoid the stubborn bolt syndrome by soaking all the bolts in PB Blaster a couple of times (the night before and morning of) to try and loosen them up.

If you're not using a lift then you'll need at least two jackstands and a floor jack. You will also need a torque wrench. I know some people go by "feel" but I always go by the setting on the torque wrench so I know I get it right (especially when I'm dealing with U-bolts). As a note, there are two different kinds of U-bolts: one is rounded and one is more square. My '03 used the square ones.

You need to remove the bottom bracket for the lower bumper valance (3 bolts on each side) and you will also need to remove the lower radiator support bracket (not at the same time though!). If you don't remove this interference, you will not be able to get the front bolt on the spring pack in or out. The rear bolt "floats" on the spring loaded extension, but I found that a C clamp worked fine for that.

The hardest part was getting the pin on the spring pack to line up on the dimple in the axle housing. I was trying to keep the axle lined up, but the track bar had other ideas. I finally gave in and disconnected the track bar and things went well after that...until I had to reconnect the track bar. That was a PITA. It took two people and a prybar. I ended up getting the bolt started and using an impact gun to feed it through. The torque on the track bar upper bolt is over 400ft-lbs, so I guestimated by stopping when the gun wasn't turning the bolt any more.

All in all it took me around 7 hours to do (and I as at a shop with a lift and pneumatic tools). I didn't need any special tools. Just be sure to set aside time, patience and beer (to help with the patience)!

 

Thanks guys. I have been thinking about the for a couple years now. lol.

 

I only gained 1/2" when I went from my stock springs to x-codes. It wasn't much but it sure helped keep the front end from sagging when I hook up the plow.
As mentioned earlier, be sure to get an alignment after they are installed. I put in my x-codes last fall and have been fighting a steering issue since then. I need to make an appointment and get my truck aligned pronto...
JEV

 

I had replaced 4 springs on a jeep and it only took me 8 hours to do that. I'm really suprised at how much harder it is to do these.

Were they new X-Codes? Why so much of a difference between the amount of lift between yours and Jasons?

 

I think my v-codes were just plain worn out, I was plowing with them on too.

 

Thanks for all the reps guys, Im just trying to help out a fellow FTE'er out

 

I took my time to make sure I did it right. Not to mention that it's still a tight fit (even with the interference removal) for the front bolt for the leaf packs. The spring packs are not small and take some coaxing to get them lined up. Plus you have to muscle around the Dana 60 which is no small feat (even if it is supported by a floor jack). The passenger's side radiator support gave me a lot of grief trying to re-install it (the bolt was not very long and required lots of trial and error to get it threaded right and tightened down, to the tune of about 45 minutes).

I'm sure I could bang it out now in 1/2 day or so since I've done it. But I went at it cold. Plus the last thing I needed to do was call my wife..."honey, I broke a part and need you to come get me so I can go buy more stuff for the truck." That would not have gone over well after all the money I spent on parts for the job already!

 

Just by replacing my V codes, my front end went up 3/4". They were probably tired, but I haven't measured the front end height since they've had a chance to settle. I'm sure between the springs settling and the fact that I had a busted leaf will acount for most of the "lift" I got with the new ones.