bleeding the slave cylinder
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
bleeding the slave cylinder
i have a 1997 F350 diesel, manual. I am going to replace my slave cylinder wondering if there are any good tricks to getting all the air out? thank you
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,168
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From: San Ramon Ca.
Welcome to FTE!! I'm an AT guy now but the in the 86 the master / slave was one piece. There was a deal on the slave that you could bleed it if need be. Looked like a + if I remember correctly. Why is it you need to replace the slave?
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 380
Likes: 1
From: ohio
The new slave will come with a plastic clip that locks the rod so you can bleed it. Also I bled mine before I installed it holding it so the bleeder screw was a the highest point. There are pretty good instrcutions with trhe new slave, at least the ones that come from Ford.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,795
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From: Ashland City, TN
I have not looked at the setup on my truck yet to see if there are any tricks. I probably should bleed it.
One of the tricks I know of is to just crack the bleeder and take the cap off the resivior, and let gravity bleed it.
One of the tricks I know of is to just crack the bleeder and take the cap off the resivior, and let gravity bleed it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
i am starting with replacing the slave cyclinder because i am having problems with my clutch disengaging fully. i figure either way i'll be putting a new slave cylinder on but maybe it'll save me from having to do the clutch! i figure it's not gonna hurt!!!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
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From: Olympia, WA
Bleeding the clutch hydraulics was a huge pain in the ****. When you're done trying to bleed the slave, try pumping the slave piston by hand until it firms up, then install it. I fought that thing for 2 days before I found a post that said to do that.
The other thing to look at first is the plastic bushing that fits into the eye of the master cylinder pushrod. Those things wear out pretty easily, and when they do the fit between the pedal linkage pin and the master cylinder pushrod eye gets way too sloppy. When the fit is sloppy, your clutch won't disengage completely.
The other thing to look at first is the plastic bushing that fits into the eye of the master cylinder pushrod. Those things wear out pretty easily, and when they do the fit between the pedal linkage pin and the master cylinder pushrod eye gets way too sloppy. When the fit is sloppy, your clutch won't disengage completely.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
master cylinder push rod
are you talking about the linkage area on the inside of the cab near the pedal?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
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From: Johnson City, TN.
Anyway up under the dash where the rod comes from the master there is a plastic sleve/clip that fits in it and the pedal linkage fits into it.
I have replaced mine a couple times.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
i have recently replaced that plastic piece as well as the steel arm that attaches to the master cylinder rod..i'm wondering if the rod of the master cylinder can be warm out and oblonged?? how much play should be at the top of the clutch pedal?? it seems like i have to much slop before it accually starts to push the rod??? frustrating sh#t. i'm dreading pulling the transmission, i think it's prolly a clutch issue????? just not sure??? not the funniest stuff to deal with!! thanks for the input!!!
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 380
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From: ohio
The pedal box bushings wiill also cause loss of travel and release problems. Easy to tell if they are shot, place your left foot on the brake pedal hard enough to takle the slack out of your brakes and then push the clutch to the floor. If you feel the brake pedal moving around the pedal box bushings are shot too. Getting it out of the truck and on the bench is not as bad a job as it looks to be. There are instructions step by step in this tread from another site. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...h-pedal-40236/
Even after I replaced the little bushing and the pedal box parts I kept loosing my disengagment slowly and it turned out to be the DMF that was going out. One thing nice about having everything up to snuf is that my new SM clutch and flywheel disengages about 2" off the floor.
Even after I replaced the little bushing and the pedal box parts I kept loosing my disengagment slowly and it turned out to be the DMF that was going out. One thing nice about having everything up to snuf is that my new SM clutch and flywheel disengages about 2" off the floor.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bellingham, WA
Thanks i'll look into that!! i know it would be really nice to get rid of that dmf and have a new clutch!! i'm thinkin about either the LUk or southbend conversion kit, if need be what do you suggest?
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Olympia, WA
[quote=bryanlindborg600;7724353]i have recently replaced that plastic piece as well as the steel arm that attaches to the master cylinder rod.
If you have too much slop, I think that's the place to start looking instead of the hydraulic side.
If you have too much slop, I think that's the place to start looking instead of the hydraulic side.
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Senior User
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From: Bellingham, WA
so after further investagation i think my slop is not as bad as i thought! my friend has the same truck so i looked at his, about the same.. i did a new slave cylinder no real change at all? i measured my friends truck for throw down on the transmission he is getting a good 1/2 inch more out of the cylinder! so i'm wondering if the master cylinder can be bad with no signs of leaks or if anyone has any thoughts of what it could be, to make my slave not throw out near far enough??? again thanks to all!!!!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Olympia, WA
i have recently replaced that plastic piece as well as the steel arm that attaches to the master cylinder rod..i'm wondering if the rod of the master cylinder can be warm out and oblonged?? how much play should be at the top of the clutch pedal?? it seems like i have to much slop before it accually starts to push the rod??? frustrating sh#t. i'm dreading pulling the transmission, i think it's prolly a clutch issue????? just not sure??? not the funniest stuff to deal with!! thanks for the input!!!
If your pedal has to move a ways before the master cylinder pushrod starts to move, you need to take care of that slop. You are not putting a full stroke into the master, so you don't get a full stroke out of the slave. That's the way I'm seeing it anyway based upon your description of the problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
so after further investagation i think my slop is not as bad as i thought! my friend has the same truck so i looked at his, about the same.. i did a new slave cylinder no real change at all? i measured my friends truck for throw down on the transmission he is getting a good 1/2 inch more out of the cylinder! so i'm wondering if the master cylinder can be bad with no signs of leaks or if anyone has any thoughts of what it could be, to make my slave not throw out near far enough??? again thanks to all!!!!
You can permanently repair the bushing slop by getting one of these..... CLICK HERE
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