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I've had lots of problems lately. Truck won't start, truck dies, etc...
I did a bunch of tests because I had no spark. Started looking at the PIP. Went through testing procedures that narrowed it down the the ECM. No AC voltage at distibutor pin 1 PIP, unplug ECM and have AC voltage within spec. The manual says that's the computer causing it then.
I've never had a computer go bad and just want some opinions before I go buy one. I have the ECM out. It an F5TF-12A650-YB
I've run so many test, replaced a bunch of components (which did cure some codes I've had for a while) I have all 111 codes now.
Any input? I've been working on this thing for weeks now, I really need it fixed
This truck just turned over 200,000 miles, so keep that in mind
It's absolutely possible for the computers to go bad, but if you're not sure, SOME local parts stores will hook up scanners for free. See if you can find one that does.
Would it be any different than how I scan for codes? I mean it's OBD-I, I didn't think there was much more you could do as far as scanning. Or can they test the computer itself?
Symptoms have just been odd. Go out and turn the key, it just spins over. Let it sit there with the key on for 5 minutes and it would fire up. Drive down the road or let it sit there and idle, eventually it would die.
I followed the test procdures to the T and it pointed to the EEC. I'm suspect of the TSB involving shielding grounding SPOUT signal but moving the harness while it was running, hitting bumps, etc... wasn't making it die.
On a vehicle this old it's certainly possible for the computer to develop internal problems, the box contains a lot of electronics that has to survive corrosion, vibration, heat cycles and power issues like everything else. Our little Ranger looses it's mind occasionally.. flashed the CE light and stumbles and bogs all of a sudden, sometimes it just clears up again in a few seconds and sometimes you have to stop and shut the motor off, wait 10 seconds and it'll start fine like nothing happened.. just like a Windows PC.
I greatly appreciate the input. I was a little surprised to see some scale/rust on the bottom of the EEC. I opened it up and it was clean inside, but still....
Have you looked at the EEC relay and it's power wiring?
It feeds the ECM and the injectors amongst other things. I had issues with an F150 that had corroded lugs on the wires to the relay. Don't like to think about the stuff I changed before I figured it out.
I removed every relay, fuse, and maxi-fuse in the box, checked cleaned contacts. Checked all grounds I could find or imagine. Tested resistance and voltage on things i didn't even know exsisted.
My goal was to get it to 111 codes key on engine off and running, then try to find the main problem. I got that accomplished. Pulled the distributor tonight to check it out. Very bad buildup on the cap contacts, brass Accel cap/rotor. Cleaned the contacts and distributor up real good, everything looked good. poped it back in and still no start, I was sure those contacts were the problem, about the worst buildup I've ever seen.
Seeing I had no spark I started doing the tests on that page I linked, which led me to the EEC.
I'm guessing the buildup on the cap points is from the poor spark I've probably had for a long time that has now gotten really bad.
New parts installed in last few weeks....
EGR valve
Motorcraft IAC valve
coil
fuel pump and EEC relays
TPS is fairly new, was out of spec, adjusted within spec
remoteTFI module, new one was grey and threw 212 code, still had problem, reinstall Ford black module
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