Intake manifold baffle
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Intake manifold baffle
I am rebuilding my 302 again. It was rebuilt by my dad and me last time. Underneath the intake there was a plate held on by rivots that was half way ripped off. We put it back together the way it was. Now that I am doing it myself I have been doing research. I havr the 302 book by Tom Monroe and he says not to build without it. So, now I need a new stock intake for a 2 bbl carb. My question is, should I move to a 4 bbl. I thought the barrel ran great. In the book it appears to be saying on page 119 that only Boss 302's came with 4 bbls.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The baffle under the intake is a heat shield to reduce the amount of oil that gets burned by the hot EGR gasses that pass through the intake. A 4bbl carb and intake can be a usefull upgrade if the motor is built to take advantage of the additional airflow it provides, and it doesn't take much effort or any additional expense to get more output from a motor, just use a cam with more lift and duration than stock.
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my new stock cam came in the mail today and the holley carb was new and will be like new when I rebuild it so I think I will stick with 2bbl. Someday I might build a motor for power, but not this one. This one is for pleasure Sunday drives.
Has anybody ever cleaned their baffle?
Has anybody ever cleaned their baffle?
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: British Columbia
I always clean the baffle. Especially when getting a used intake manifold, it's very important to remove it and reinstall it. I picked up an old iron 351W-4V a few years ago that was glass beaded. Glass beads trickled out from that plate when the intake was tilted.
I wonder how many intakes have been installed over the years with a spoonful of sand or glass beads trapped by the baffle.
There is also a pipe plug accessed from under that baffle, to do a topnotch job of chemical cleaning, all such plugs, screws etc. must be removed. As I recall from Tom Monroe's book, he recommends tapping the baffle drive screw holes for 1/4" NC screws. However, I just file two flats on the old drivescrews (after removing them) to help unscrew them next time.
I wonder how many intakes have been installed over the years with a spoonful of sand or glass beads trapped by the baffle.
There is also a pipe plug accessed from under that baffle, to do a topnotch job of chemical cleaning, all such plugs, screws etc. must be removed. As I recall from Tom Monroe's book, he recommends tapping the baffle drive screw holes for 1/4" NC screws. However, I just file two flats on the old drivescrews (after removing them) to help unscrew them next time.
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