Wiring nightmare
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 40
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From: Colorado
Wiring nightmare
I'll try to keep this short.R signal works same with L,Haz Flash works. Parking Lights work. NO Backup lights or Brake Lights when Brake pedal applied. Oh by the way I've been MONKEYING around with this for about 5 hours, with that said I grab the test light and start chasing wires, before I take steering wheel off and look at DIR Cam.Start with Brake switch (Red wire & Red w/ Black tracer) Got juice when brake applied. So I thinks must be either from there back or from there to cam. Went under hood pulled rubber boot on wires , have juice to brown but, nothing else. looked at wires along Frame Rail no breaks or grounding as far as I can see. Does Yellow/black have to be connected to Green according to Diagram it sure looks that way, also does Black w/ red tracer go together for BACKUP Lights.Did pull steering wheel got to Cam everything looked good.Put DI grease for contact ,still nothing. I'm Pulling what little hair I have left out on this one. Usually I can figure things out pretty good. It's got me stumped. Help would be appreciated. 1972 Ford F-250 Ranger 4X4 390,reg cab Thanx Guys
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 75
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I used to have a fullsize Jimmy that had similar symptoms that you are seeing and what I found on that was a bad ground for one of the tail lights. You might want to look at them on both lights. Mine had rusted off and was pulling a ground through the other lights somehow.
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 168
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland , Florida
I don't see where the grounds are rear lights models 83. Rear light models 80 & 86 have 4 wires going back to the rear y-blk stripe,grn,brn & blk-red stripe. The light assy has a ground wire off assy. The L side has y-blk stripe & brn connects bottom light. The brn comes off and goes to the R with blk-red stripe & grn. The blk-red stripe branches off to connect to the L & R top light. The assy. has a wire connected to body and assy.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Of the four wires going to the rear, one is for back up, one for tail light, one each for left and right turn signal/brake.
Our vehicles are body chassis ground. Bolts and screws that mount things like light buckets provide the method for the ground to the body that is bolted to the chassis.
Corrosion is the big culprit in many cases. A good cleaning will usually take care of light issues.
John
Our vehicles are body chassis ground. Bolts and screws that mount things like light buckets provide the method for the ground to the body that is bolted to the chassis.
Corrosion is the big culprit in many cases. A good cleaning will usually take care of light issues.
John
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Colorado
I hear ya Joe! I found a "braided" ground on the cab that wasn"t attached by the length of it ,it fit perfect to my intake manifold I bolted it there(cab to engine). I hear what you say about the 4 wires 1 Brown ,1 yellow w/black tracer, 1 green, 1 black w/red tracer but when I go to "hook" them up still no backup or brake lights. From the bed I have 2 brown,1 green, 1 yellow w/black tracer, 2 Black w/red tracer. Like I said I have juice at brake switch and juice at coupler for turn sig.I have flashers up front but,not in rear and no brake lights. Have turn sig and parking lights. Believe you me I've tried all different kinds of combos with the wires. Turn sig cam looks good (NOT BROKEN) test lighted same have juice. By the way according to wiring schematic ther's a "Backup switch? Where is it ? I have 435 new process and 4-speed Manual. Is it under the shift boot? Maybe some here can E-mail PIX of what wire goes to what. Thanx guys. If it weren't for this site, I don't know what I do. ,except take it to the Mechanic.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Do you have a circuit tester like this http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sjdiscounttools_2063_240494358
You can trouble shoot 99% of the electrical problems with a $5.00 tester like that one. If your tail lights flash your problem is at the front of the truck. The ign switch has to be on, and you test the wires at the pressure switch if you have a single bowl master cylinder. Once you get power out of that switch you can follow the wire and locate where the issue is.
Ya gotta have a tester, or you are guessing.
John
You can trouble shoot 99% of the electrical problems with a $5.00 tester like that one. If your tail lights flash your problem is at the front of the truck. The ign switch has to be on, and you test the wires at the pressure switch if you have a single bowl master cylinder. Once you get power out of that switch you can follow the wire and locate where the issue is.
Ya gotta have a tester, or you are guessing.
John
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 40
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From: Colorado
No Guessing! I have a test light( Clear with bulb in handle pointy w/ alligator clip on other end) I have right and left turn signals, I have Parking lights, I have headlights. WHAT I DON'T HAVE is BRAKE LIGHTS AND BACKUP LIGHTS also, HAZARD LIGHTS FLASH FRONT but, Not rear When I pull **** on Hazard Flasher ****.
Jo are you talking about the RUBBER BOOT by the BOOSTER? If so, I pulled boot and tested that too. Had juice on Brown but not yellow w/black tracer or RED Black Tracer.
Jo are you talking about the RUBBER BOOT by the BOOSTER? If so, I pulled boot and tested that too. Had juice on Brown but not yellow w/black tracer or RED Black Tracer.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
You said you have right and left turn signals.
This includes in the rear right?
Please clarify if this is the case.
If this is the case, then the wires leading to the rear lamps are good, as the turn signal brake and rear hazard lamps use the same two wires.
Check the fuses in the fuse panel. If I remember right, both the Brake lamps and the Backup lamps use the same fuse. The turn signals and flasher is on a different fuse altogether.
If the fuses are good, check the wiring between the fuse block, and the NSS (if equipped), and the Emergency warning flasher, and brake light switch on the pedal. Then check the wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch, and the Emergency Warning switch etc...
This includes in the rear right?
Please clarify if this is the case.
If this is the case, then the wires leading to the rear lamps are good, as the turn signal brake and rear hazard lamps use the same two wires.
Check the fuses in the fuse panel. If I remember right, both the Brake lamps and the Backup lamps use the same fuse. The turn signals and flasher is on a different fuse altogether.
If the fuses are good, check the wiring between the fuse block, and the NSS (if equipped), and the Emergency warning flasher, and brake light switch on the pedal. Then check the wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch, and the Emergency Warning switch etc...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I can't see your setup, so I don't know if you have an original single bowl master cylinder or a power brake upgrade.
Either way, with the ign switch on one of the two wires should be hot, and with the brake pedal depressed the circuit will be complete and both will be hot. The single bowl attaches to the firewall and the pressure switch is on top, the other moves the switch under the dash and operates off the pedal.
First off, since the turn signal and brake share the same wire and bulb filament and one is working we know power is getting to the bulb. The first place is to check the switch before mentioned.
Once we get power through the switch we continue on toward the steering column where the brake and turn signal merge. You should be able to connect the two wires at the switch for continues power flow while testing.
I can't help with wire color ID.
When I converted my 76 column for use in my 66, I had it all sorted in about an hour, by finding out which wire went where and matching them up.
guluk
John
Either way, with the ign switch on one of the two wires should be hot, and with the brake pedal depressed the circuit will be complete and both will be hot. The single bowl attaches to the firewall and the pressure switch is on top, the other moves the switch under the dash and operates off the pedal.
First off, since the turn signal and brake share the same wire and bulb filament and one is working we know power is getting to the bulb. The first place is to check the switch before mentioned.
Once we get power through the switch we continue on toward the steering column where the brake and turn signal merge. You should be able to connect the two wires at the switch for continues power flow while testing.
I can't help with wire color ID.
When I converted my 76 column for use in my 66, I had it all sorted in about an hour, by finding out which wire went where and matching them up.
guluk
John
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Hey Jo! I have the brake switch at the pedal. Both are hot when i press the pedal. Wires at Turn sig switch are hot . I think maybe my problem might be between Hazard flash and directional flasher.
