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how to replace oil filter threads on block???

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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 02:46 AM
  #1  
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how to replace oil filter threads on block???

ok i picked up my motor from the machine shop a year ago and finally got time to put the motor in. i put the motor in and start assembling some accessories and trans. i want to cover up yet another whole which happens to be the oil filter oil. well i can't get the dam oil filter hole at all. i look down there and its cracked. dam machine shop must of let the oil filter threads get dropped on. it looks like the middle piece can come out. on my engine rebuild book the motor in there has the threads that has a nut on there so you can just use a big wrench on there, but mine has nothing to hold onto.

how do i replace this part?

i've already tricked to hammer the cracks together to see if i can possibly get the filter on, and no dice. i hope i can get this done in the car because i'm going to madder than hell if not cuz i went thru hell trying to get the motor mounts to line up this time. (73 mustang)
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:04 AM
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it does screw out. Sometimes you can get a pipe wrench on it (most times not LOL) But if you have an Air hammer use a chisel bit and working on the base use it to turn it out (it screws the same was as your oil filter so keep that in mind as to which way to turn it... counter clockwise)

If you don't have an airhammer, you might get it with a regular hammer and chisel or if you have 1 big enough an easy out will work too.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:06 AM
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If you are speaking of the "Oil Filter Mounting Bolt Insert" that threads into the block, there are THREE different ones, depending on which 429 (460) engine you have.

There are two different types for the 429 CJ (it depends on the year of the engine), another for the regular ol' 429/460's.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:10 AM
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Bill the differences is if you have a oil filter adaptor/cooler

Edit, and there is more then 1 for the other motors other then the CJ, the 429 truck engines used 1 like the CJ units (has female threads instead of male threads like the regular setups that the filter screws directly onto which the OP has since he is trying to screw the filter ONTO the threads.)

Also all the blocks have the same threads in the blocks.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:12 AM
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i have a 71 block, i absolutely don't have the one that can just be installed with a large socket, the one i have looked like it is pressed in but not sure.

what term can i go to a part store and ask for a replacement? i call them and they don't have a clue.

how would i use the easy out method? do i just drill a hole in there and stab in the easy out? i don't have the driver side header on yet so i got some decnet room to play with. the only thing, i got the sway bar keeping hands working motion limited.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:16 AM
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Go to your local Ford dealer they should be able to get it for you (Bill can probably even give you the part number)

Also IIRC (Bill correct me if I am wrong) But the 1 used on the 302 and 351w is interchangable if not the same part number

the easy out trick just involves putting the easy out into the middle of it, they are NOT pressed into the blocks, it is threaded.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:18 AM
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are these torqued really tight? if i can get a monkey wrench in there, will it work?

so theres a no go trying to get these things from the local part store?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by XolieX
i have a 71 block..
Leave it to Ford to have at least FOUR fracatta part number updates for the same damn part (EDIT: I just looked again, there are actually SEVEN, but I only listed four).

The absolute WORST part of this job is that Ford updates 10's of 1000's of part numbers every year. Tryin' to keep track of all this scheiss was a royal PITA!

F1AZ6890B replaced: D7AZ6890B, D7AZ6890A, D1AZ6890A & C2OZ6890A .. Insert / 3/4" -16 & 1 1/16" -12 male threads / 1 13/64" long / shoulder type insert to attach filter to cyl. block.

Fits: 1968/79 429/460 (except 429 CJ & S/CJ) / 1980 and later 460 is NOT the same / 1962/65 221/260 / 1963/68 289 / 1968/96 302 / 1970/74 351C/400 / 1975/82 351M/400 / 1969/96 351W.

F1AZ6890B is available from your local Ford Dealer / MSRP: $9.82 // FTE sponsor: y2kfordparts.com price: $5.06.

If you tell me what city you are in, I can tell you the closest dealer to you that has it.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:02 AM
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Try a basin wrench.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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i have the mustang down south in area code 93033, i actually live at area code 95903.

i'm going back home tonight due to military reasons, so the part will neededto be picked up 95903. thanks.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Internal pipe wrench will take it out.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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ok i tried the whole pipe wrench and vice grip thing today and it didn't work. i would get on there and itll just turn. the cracks got even longer and etc. so i went with the EZ out method and all the threads are off now, now i am stuck to use the easy out. i had a big easy out and when i tried to turn it lefty-loosy its so tight i can't get it, i might have to do it from the top cuz its at a angle.

why am i having such a hard time? are these torqued in there tight? i also tried to turn it out with a chisel and hammer. but nothing again,
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:24 PM
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well it's probably been in that block since 1971 LOL (being a D1VE block no later then sometime in 78 most likely)
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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i am going thru the same concept of "lefty-loosey & righty-tighty" right?


and the entire center piece comes out right?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 07:39 PM
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yes and yes
 
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