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At first, you said the passengerside window would go down, but not up, from the driverside. Now you are saying it does neither.
The only way to find the problem is with a test light or meter.
On the passengerside switch plug, test between the Light Blue/Black and the White/Yellow, then the Light Blue/Black and the Tan/Light Blue. It should light up on both. The switch will be the problem.
If not, go to driverside switch panel. Test the same wires there, on the passenger switch. If both light up, the problem is the wiring between the doors.
I either wire does not light up, put in new switch. Test again. If still no light, test between the Light Blue and each of the Black wires. If still no light, the black wire is the problem, in the harness, close to the switch panel.
At first, you said the passengerside window would go down, but not up, from the driverside. Now you are saying it does neither.
The only way to find the problem is with a test light or meter.
On the passengerside switch plug, test between the Light Blue/Black and the White/Yellow, then the Light Blue/Black and the Tan/Light Blue. It should light up on both. The switch will be the problem.
If not, go to driverside switch panel. Test the same wires there, on the passenger switch. If both light up, the problem is the wiring between the doors.
I either wire does not light up, put in new switch. Test again. If still no light, test between the Light Blue and each of the Black wires. If still no light, the black wire is the problem, in the harness, close to the switch panel.
i have a light between Light Blue/Black and the White/Yellow, then the Light Blue/Black and the Tan/Light Blue. i have a light between the same 2 on the drivers side. i also have a light between the blue/black on the drivers and all the blacks on that side as well.
Now that I think about it, the window motor should be unplugged. You could be getting feed back through the motor. Retest the wiring with the motor unplugged.
I have the same exact issue on my van. For some reason, the wiring for the passenger power window lost the ground connection. I took the non-functional ground wire and grounded it at the door, which fixed the problem at the passenger door window switch, but I still can not roll the window up from the driver side window switch. It has not bothered me enough to diagnose the actual wiring issue and fix it properly, but maybe I'll make some time for that. I assume that both switches get their ground from a common source, it is just a matter of finding where that is and why it has disconnected.
The ground for the passengerside is the same place as the driverside window switch. The passengerside window circuit starts in the driverside switch panel. The vans wiring is identical to the trucks wiring, so you can use the diagrams for the van.
The ground for the passengerside is the same place as the driverside window switch. The passengerside window circuit starts in the driverside switch panel. The vans wiring is identical to the trucks wiring, so you can use the diagrams for the van.
If that is the case, the ground break must be somewhere between the driver and passenger window switches. That is why both switches failed, and the passenger window switch is the only one that rolls up the window after grounding the wire at the passenger door. I guess grounding the wire at the driver door would fix that switch as well, though I would prefer to find the actual problem, rather than just adding more patches. If I find the problem, I'll post it.
The quick fix is to cut the White/Yellow and the Tan/Light Blue before the passengerside switch and connect the plug side of the wires to ground and tape up the ends that are coming from the harness. That will allow the window to work only from the passengerside door.
If that is the case, the ground break must be somewhere between the driver and passenger window switches. That is why both switches failed, and the passenger window switch is the only one that rolls up the window after grounding the wire at the passenger door. I guess grounding the wire at the driver door would fix that switch as well, though I would prefer to find the actual problem, rather than just adding more patches. If I find the problem, I'll post it.
Yes, that's why I mentioned at first, to swap the switches in the driverside switch panel. If the driver window stops working and the passenger window starts to work, the switch is the problem. If the window still doesn't work, the wiring is the problem.
The quick fix is to cut the White/Yellow and the Tan/Light Blue before the passengerside switch and connect the plug side of the wires to ground and tape up the ends that are coming from the harness. That will allow the window to work only from the passengerside door.
worked perfect!! thanks man now it works up and down from the pass side. nothing from the drivers but i can live with that. as long as i can get it down and back up im happy. thanks alot man!!
Glad I could help. I know you asked at first about rigging something up, but sometimes the correct repair is easier, but if you're happy, that's all that matters.
If you don't really understand automotive electrical, it can be very complicated and scary to get into. I've pretty much rewired my entire truck, so I have learned how things work. I made the entire power window harness for mine and it's also connected to a remote control, so I can operate the windows when i'm not even in the truck.
thats so cool man. i understand a little. i do my own system installs, hooking up lights and relays. i just get confused sometimes in how the factory wire up things. i put in an alarm one time on a thunderbird and had to use two relays to reverse the polarity on the door locks. at first i would arm it and it would unlock....lol disarm the system and they would lock. i was stumped at first until i read the instructions. thanks again for the help.