Well my dilemma continues; I go out to install my new Valair clutch kit that replaced the prior one that had issues after 180 miles and notice that the clutch disk springs look odd. On my old clutch disk, all the outer springs were green, with thinner, bare-metal springs inside each one. The new clutch disk springs are the same, except for one; the inner, bare-metal spring is there, but there is no outer green spring. See pic below:



My guess is this isn't normal, and now I'm not very happy, but I thought I'd see what you guys had to say before I call Valair first thing tomorrow morning.

If this second kit is faulty as well, I don't know what I'm going to do...

 

It's normal......I promise. As a matter of fact I just went to the shop to verify it. I have an organic/Feramic I just took out of my truck to make way for the double disk Dan built for me. It's exactly the same springs. And it was quiet and smooth as silk. Run it brother.

 

I even asked the same thing when I was watching JD assemble the clutch. I don't recall his answer, but I do remember he said it was supposed to be that way.

Also, to help you rest easier, all these clutches that go out for our trucks (meaning performance diesel trucks) They ARE NOT handled by 50 different people. I've been to Valair...ALOT. LOL And the majority of the time, these clutches are final assembled by one person. J.D.. And JD is THE MAN when it comes to setting them up. And he's a diesel nut too, so he takes a great deal of pride in what he does. When it's not him, it's Kevin. Those are the only two guys I've ever seen do final setup on these things. With exception of Dan double checking their work.

Now it is true that there are other guys that do the actual assebly of the clutch disks and pressure plates. But again, only one or two guys. And I'm awful because I can never remember their names. But they too take alot of pride in making clutches for us. This is not some huge manufacturing facility. IT IS a grass roots company that kicks alot of azz with a core group of guys. And I guarentee you that each one of them has heard about your clutch, and only use it as motivation to build them better.

And in your pm, you said you realize "results may vary". While that is true, even the best have mistakes. But you will never find another clutch company that will take care of you like Valair will. If you are straight forward with them, and tell them what's going on and not fly off the handle, Dan, Kevin, JD, will stop the world to make sure you are happy. I've personally seen it time, and time again. Dan would rather lose money and make an individual happy, than **** one guy off and make a million. And that my friend you can take to the bank.

And finally......LOL I'm not saying all that to flame you or anything of the sort..I Promise. I'm tell you that to let you know what kind of a team you have in your corner. And I want to ease your mind because I realize you are frustrated. Believe me, I feel your pain. Since December I've had the tranny out of my truck 11 times, 10 ended in aggrivation. While it was for a project with Dan, true, still the work was there, and Dan and the guys NEVER gave up on me. And I pretty much got to test every clutch they sell. LMAO So rest easy my friend, and get that cluch in and start enjoying it again. I would say I'd cross my fingers, but I know I don't need to. You'll be fine.

 

Shopar, I just read you other post about your clutch woes....don't know how i missed it the first time around but, It looks like the steel used in the flywheel had a hard spot in it..but that's over with now I hope. I've seen the same thing happen in new brake rotors that appeared to be flat...they had brake pedal pulse because of it.

I just wanted to give you a tip for draining the front diff without pulling the axles. You can drill a hole in the bottom of the housing then tap it for a pipe plug. I've done this on several diffs without bad things happening. Initially I was worried about a crack developing especially on a couple on drag cars that are pushing some big HP numbers through them.

 

I believe you cody, but why would one spring be different, that seems odd to me. i have not seen a clutch like that

 

this is called a 7 + 1 free travel design, we use this set up to reduce gear rollover and or gear clatter, the small spring is an isolator spring used to asorb the spike passed through the engine to your transmission, very common in class 6 and 7 trucks.

 

Thanks Cody and Valair1 (Kevin, right?) for the clarification and encouragement!

Kevin from Valair even called me yesterday morning to describe the new 7+1 spring design and that I didn't need to set off a grenade under the the truck out of frustration quite yet. I'm actually looking forward to installing the new disk to see how much quieter the gear rattle is with the new spring design.

Hopefully I'll have it all back together this afternoon and be able to give you all an update.

Cody is certainly right when he says Valair has the best customer service out there. How many other parts vendors and manufacturers would not only respond to a thread on a forum, but also personally call to reassure their customers? Not too many I'd guess...

Thanks again Kevin and Cody!

 

Kickin!

Kicking is too short a message.

errr.

 

[quote=SHOpar;7705798]Thanks Cody and Valair1 (Kevin, right?) for the clarification and encouragement!

Well Valair1 is Dan, if you call me Kevin again, i wont be so freindly , LOL
glad to see we got you what you needed. just doing business as usual.

 

Well, he did put a question mark Dan. hahaha. =)

I feel bad, I'm have to call and bug you guys, not enough info on your websight.

Were going to have to fix that.

 

yep i was just messin with ya!LOL

 

LOL! Well at least we now know the identity of man behind the "Valair1" handle!

The truck is almost back on the road. All I have left to do this morning is put new fluids in the engine and front and rear diff.

The Mighty Vac pump worked great for sucking the fluid out of the front diff; I was able to get about 1.75 quarts out, which is pretty darn close to the 1.9 quart capacity. I couldn't get the pump to work on the rear diff, so I had to break down and pop the cover off to drain it. It was nice to take a look in there and see that everything looks great. I also found out I have 3.55 gears and and open diff. I was already pretty sure I didn't have a LSD, but I swore it had 4.10's in it, but the axle door code (39) and axle tag (3.55) say otherwise. What RPMS do you guys turn with the 4.10's in 5th gear at 60 mph? My RPMS are right about 2K at this speed.

 

at 65 i'm running 2100, and at 70 i'm run ning 2350ish.

 

That RPM range says 4.10's. At 70 I'm at 2350rpms. Maybe someone did a gear swap on it before.

 

Hmmm... I'll have to pay more attention next weekend when I take the truck out for a road trip to see exactly what rpms I'm running. I should have taken the time to count the gear teeth on the rear diff when I had the cover off to figure it out for sure, but at that point I was more interested in getting the truck back on the road.

Clutch update with GOOD news will follow in the post below!