Can't seem to figure them out.

I just bought a 1995 cc dually auto with 225K on it. Completely stock motor from air cleaner, squash pipe, cat, muffler, etc. Shifts just fine. He's checked all the fuses and they're good. No check engine or abs or brake lights on the dash.

It's currently at my folk's place as it was closer to them than me. So unfortunately I can't just run outside to try something. I'll have to relay the info onto my dad until I can get it later this month.

So what's going on:

1. The cruise doesn't work.

2. Only idles at 500 rpm which seems pretty low.

3. He says it's got a sound that he describes as "metal rubbing" when at idle. If he revs it up above 650 (which I think is the normal idle rpm) the noise goes away.

4. Yesterday when driving it around, when shifting from a drive gear to reverse, it would die. Unless he'd give it a little fuel to keep the revs up, then it'd go into reverse fine. From park to reverse it's fine.

5. This morning when he started it up, it started right away and ran strong for 30 seconds to a minute then acted like it stumbled/bogged down and died. He restarted and it died right away. Restarted again and he pressed on the pedal lightly for the first minute or so, then it was fine. Never tried to die again and then set and idled fine.

Any and all ideas would be great. Don't know if any or all are related but I'm just trying to figure out what I've got on my hands.

Thanks

 

icp sensor??

 

Have you check (changed) the oil lately? Start ,stall , hard restart can be low pressure oil pump , or a drainback issue in the HPOP Res ...

 

1. Check the tail light bulbs. If the brake light element is burned out the cruise won't work.

2. 500 seems a little low but mine only idles at 600 or so.

3. Sounds like the EBPV staying shut. It's the exhaust back pressure valve to help it warm up faster. I just unplugged mine and it stays open all the time. Unless you are in sub-freezing temps you really don't need it. You can also wire it to a switch for manual operation and use it as a exhaust brake.
The plug is located right in front of the turbo on the driver side in the valley. Two wires go to it.

4 and 5. Change the fuel filter, clean the FPR screen, change oil if it hasn't been done recently, maybe run some injector cleaner or ATF in the fuel. Also check your fuel pressure, you can use a tire pressure gauge as long as it goes at least to 80 or 90 psi. There's a schrader valve on the driver side of the FPR (gold thing next to the fuel filter bowl). If it's below 50 psi i'd recommend doing a shim. You can unscrew the FPR plug (brass plug facing the drivers side) and pull out the small spring. Put a BB (like from a bb gun) in the hole followed by the spring and then screw it back in. My fuel pressure went from 40 psi to 65 psi and i noticed a big improvement in response the the engine not bogging down.

Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.

 

That sensor will cause the dying after a minute or so wouldn't it? But IIRC, it'll set the check engine light. And it's not setting the light on the dash.

Oil has been checked and is full. It was changed not too long before I bought it. Still has a good color to it and isn't black. Not sure of brand.

My other question is: Is there anything in the trans, torque converter, or flywheel that could be causing the noise and/or the bogging down/dying?

Thanks.

 

If you don't need the cat get rid of it. That eliminates that possibility then and just put a piece of straight pipe in its place. Unless you plan on a whole new exhaust. I would say just unhook it and try but with them miles you're gonna have to cut the bolts more than likely anyway. My favorite tool on my exhaust removal was a sawzall. Cut here, cut there its gone.

 

No it doesn't need to be there and I was going to remove it anyway. I'm pretty sure he's going to do it regardless, just didn't know if that could be causing a problem or two. This pickup is going to be a project so it's definitely getting a new complete exhaust.

I'm not all that familier with cats because I've always cut them off immediately (or it's not had one on to start with) so I've never had one with that many miles!!

 

before my FPR shim it bogged down a little between shifts, like when it went from 1st to 2nd. That's almost completely gone now.

Not sure on the torque converter or flywheel...

Make sure when he changes the fuel filter that he drains the water valve and cleans the FPR screen

 

You don't by chance have a picture of the FPR screen and where it's located that I could send him???

 

It's inside the fuel filter canister. There's a little hole in the side of the inside on the driver side. clean it out with a q-tip with the cotton taken off

wow, sorry for using "side" so much...

 

...Pic ......

 

Thanks Rick!! I got it saved to email him.

Also I just talked to him and he said that the noise is heard under 700 rpm. Anything over that and either the motor is too loud for him to hear it or it goes away. He's also checked every pully except the water pump and hears no noises coming from them. He said that when he's underneath the truck by the bell housing cover, the noise sounds like it's coming from the front. But when he's in front and on top, if sounds like it's coming from the lower back by the bell housing cover.

Also when he sets the parking brake, the light on the dash doesn't come on. And when he turns the key on before start, it doesn't light either. Any thoughts on this affecting the cruise?

 

the parking brake light is triggered by a little sensor down on top of the pedal. I had to put a new sensor on mine cause it would stick.

 

So I've got the truck up here now and had a chance to work on it a little.

1. The cruise issue was the sensor at the front of the mater cylinder. It was really the only other option. Thanks to Cuda Jim saying that might be what it is in another thread I was in, I wouldn't have ever known it.

2. Idle is actually about 550 to 600 rpm. Still lower than my SD but more normal.

3. The metal rubbing sound is definitely the torque converter. And the sound doesn't "go away" after getting up to more rpm. It just gets muffled out by the engine noise. Brian at BTS thinks that it may be the original or close to the original TC and that it's common for them to get that way with higher miles. The clutches aren't holding the pressures like they should or something.

4 & 5. Again TC related. I've yet to have it die once when starting it or putting into reverse from a drive gear. Brian said that with the TC and internal clutches not working properly, it's "bogging" it down and essentially "snuffing it out". When I went down to Wyoming to meet my dad to pick it up, he told me that it had done it several times. But again I've yet to have it die on me. So we'll see.

It had a blown #8 fuse under the dash when I bought it causing the speedo not to work and it was shifting erratically. That was an easy fix, but then I blew the #18 on Saturday leaving my house. Also another simple fix from the spares in the door. But Brian told me that if I keep blowing them, I needed to replace the shifter because it's got a short or something in it. I also had trouble getting it started Friday night and again on Saturday. It'd crank and crank but didn't act like it wanted to fire at all. Both times I moved the shift lever between gears and back to park. After I did that it fired on the first crank, so I'm thinking that I'll definitely be replacing it.

Other than that, its a dang nice pickup for being 14 years old and 230K. I think I'm going to keep it and may even make it my primary vehicle and sell my SD.

 

Is this the same Ryan that was giving me a hard time for considering doing the same thing?