c6 leak
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c6 leak
I have a FE C6 behind my 390. I hope someone has had a similar problem and a how to go about fixing it. I have a leak coming from the shift lever on the drivers side of the transmission. I seem to be losing about 2-3 quarts per tank of gas, which makes it really expensive to drive. Not to mention messy! How do i fix it, or do I have to take this to someone that does transmissions? Can I just go to the parts store and get some transmission stop leak? 
Just looking for some friendly help, anything is appreciated
Just looking for some friendly help, anything is appreciated
Logistics Pro
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Pull the valve body out, undo the 1/2 nut holding on the kick-down lever, pull the nut from the inside that holds the selector shaft in and replace the selector shaft seal and kick-down shaft "O"-ring. Very easy to do. Make sure the parking pawl rod is in the correct position during reassembly. Valve body bolts torque in at 100 inch lbs.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Pull the valve body out, undo the 1/2 nut holding on the kick-down lever, pull the nut from the inside that holds the selector shaft in and replace the selector shaft seal and kick-down shaft "O"-ring. Very easy to do. Make sure the parking pawl rod is in the correct position during reassembly. Valve body bolts torque in at 100 inch lbs.
Removing the selector lever allows access without removing the kickdown lever or anything else.
Where is the O-ring on the kickdown lever? I don't recall ever selling one, the parts catalog doesn't show it.
btw: There are two different seals, it depends on whether the C6 was made before or after 1975.
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Why would you need to remove the valve body to R&R that seal?
Removing the selector lever allows access without removing the kickdown lever or anything else.
Where is the O-ring on the kickdown lever? I don't recall ever selling one, the parts catalog doesn't show it.
btw: There are two different seals, it depends on whether the C6 was made before or after 1975.
Removing the selector lever allows access without removing the kickdown lever or anything else.
Where is the O-ring on the kickdown lever? I don't recall ever selling one, the parts catalog doesn't show it.
btw: There are two different seals, it depends on whether the C6 was made before or after 1975.
The reason that I say to remove the selector shaft to install the new seal is because it's very easy to damage the sealing lip of the seal while trying to press it in with the shaft in place. It's also easier to remove the old seal with the shaft removed.
O-ring can be seen here marked as "throttle control seal", near the neutral safety switch...
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/...rans/c6exp.gif
FTE Legend
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From: Upstate NY
If you know a tranny guy that has grown up working on C-6's, (usually over fiffty years old) I would take it to him and let him give it the once over. My guy said those O-ring fairlures were quite common in the C-6. He fixed me up and gave me a check out for just a few bucks! Not to discourage the "do it your self", if you are so inclined. I am certain that there is very capable advise on this forum to take you thru most any repair, such as instig8r63, for this one. Then there is NumberDummy, trying to keep everybody honest! The way these folks offer up help is just great! Many have come to depend on it!
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The O-ring goes inside the selector shaft where the kick-down actuating rod goes through. It is installed after the rod has been slid through from the inside. It goes in just before the lever is bolted on.
The reason that I say to remove the selector shaft to install the new seal is because it's very easy to damage the sealing lip of the seal while trying to press it in with the shaft in place. It's also easier to remove the old seal with the shaft removed.
O-ring can be seen here marked as "throttle control seal", near the neutral safety switch.
The reason that I say to remove the selector shaft to install the new seal is because it's very easy to damage the sealing lip of the seal while trying to press it in with the shaft in place. It's also easier to remove the old seal with the shaft removed.
O-ring can be seen here marked as "throttle control seal", near the neutral safety switch.
386078S .. Oil Seal (O-Ring), Throttle Control Lever Shaft
This O-ring comes before the selector shaft seal, so I dunno why you'd need to remove the valve body to access it.
I passed out 100's of the selector shaft seals (C6AZ7B498A = 1966/74; and D5AZ7B498A 1975 and later), have watched mechanics replace them without removing the valve body.
As stated in post #5, these seals did fail quite frequently.
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I followed your instructions and everything worked perfectly, thank you for everyone's help. The exploded view was very helpful!!!!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ohio
Since you guys are talking about C6 leaks, I have a question about my C6 in my 1969 T-bird. I had the front end on jack stands for a couple of months last year and the C6developed a nasty leak. I actually think it is coming out out the converter. I understand that there is a pump seal that could be the culpret. I have never worked on an automatic tranny before and wondered if this is a hard job to find the leak and fix it. It is a low mileage car (40k) that I have owned for 17 years, so the tranny is in good shape otherwise.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
There is a front pump seal (C2AZ7A248A), large front pump O-ring (C6AZ7A248A) and a front pump gasket (C6AZ7A136A).
These three parts (and part numbers) fit every C6 = Passenger Car/F100/350/Bronco/Econoline, whatever.
These three parts (and part numbers) fit every C6 = Passenger Car/F100/350/Bronco/Econoline, whatever.
Logistics Pro
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Since you guys are talking about C6 leaks, I have a question about my C6 in my 1969 T-bird. I had the front end on jack stands for a couple of months last year and the C6developed a nasty leak. I actually think it is coming out out the converter. I understand that there is a pump seal that could be the culpret. I have never worked on an automatic tranny before and wondered if this is a hard job to find the leak and fix it. It is a low mileage car (40k) that I have owned for 17 years, so the tranny is in good shape otherwise.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ohio
It's usually only the converter seal that leaks, which can be replaced by removing the trans and then the torque converter. It should be obvious where it's leaking from once you get the converter out. If the pump gasket and o-ring need to be replaced, that's a little more involved and requires removal of the pump assembly. Make sure you get the drain plug on the converter at 6 0'clock and drain the converter before removing it. Also, make sure the converter is fully seated in the pump before you try to put the trans back in.
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