Good Day,

I have an 82 F150 that orginally came with a 302 and the C6. At some point someone swapped a 351 for the 302. The problem right now is very minor, and I suppose it's a good time to fix it. It started after a couple of longer trips, the transmission would 'kick' when going from 2nd to 3rd. I thought perhaps I had heated up the tranny fluid a bit (the coolant system in the truck at the time was 'going') I fixed it,but the problem continues.

Normally, even under hard accelleration, I can't feel the transmission shift. However It seems noticeable now. If I'm crawling around parking lots, I don't notice the shifts, and If I am doing a hard accelleration the shifts seem normal. Its normal driving that is causing this.

When I bought the truck the vacuum modulator was gone, I replaced that about 2.5 years ago now. But I recall that the transmission had poor shifts, and cold the transmission would slip when the modulator was gone. I'm not experiencing the slipping when cold ?

Due to the motor swap The Kick down link also went missing. My understanding is the C6 will function without.

I suppose my next step will be to drain and replace the fluid, change the filter (I don't know when that was last done). My understanding is I don't want to see garbage in the bottom of the pan. I also may replace all the vacuum lines from the tee back to the modulator, incase their is a small leak.

What would cause this problem ? Aside from a rebuild is there anything I can do to rectify it ?

/\/\()|\|Z@

 

Start with the simple stuff - change the fluid and get a new screen (filter) for the C6. Replace the modulator with either a green or black stripe version. Verify that you are getting full manifold vacuum (not ported) to the modulator and that the line size is sufficient - minimum 3/16" size steel line.

Dropping the pan will let you see if there is a normal amount of sediment or if there are larger particles floating around in there. When you change the fluid, don't forget to drain the converter as well. Disconnect the cooler lines and flush those out using a pressurized can of cooler flush - very easy.

When you refill the drained tranny, add a gallon of Dexron/Mercon fluid, start it up and run it for about 20-30 seconds to start filling the converter. Then turn it off and add another gallon. Start it again and then put it through the gears as you add more fluid to get it to normal level. Should be "around" 12 qts total.

After you do that, adjust the forward band. Loosen the locknut (drivers side by the shifter) and tighten the adjustment screw to 10 ft lbs. Then loosen it exactly 1 1/2" turns (coarse thread adjuster) or 3 turns (fine thread adjuster). Hold the adjuster steady and retighten the locknut.

That's a start to get the "easy" stuff done!

 

I've changed the fluid in the tranmission. The fluid was red and didn't smell burnt. The bottom of the pan was coated in a thin layer of black (dust)? Most everything else in the transmission wasn't covered and very bright. I also replaced the fliter, the old filter being the only other thing that was coated in the black dust. The screen didn't have any items in it.

It appears that the problem is definetly better. But I was hoping to tighten the band adjustment as well. I think I've located the screw under alot of grime.

To just clarify, I have to unbold the Large Bolt on the outside of the screw, it looks like I will require a Long socket abotu 3/4 inch ?

What socket do you use to adjust the screw, it appears to be square and not 8 sided like a regular bolt ?

 

is the c6 a 3 speed or 4 speed?

 

The C6 is a 3 speed.

 

I am also thinking about flushing my C6.

 

Chevy_Monza...did you ever tighten that band? I have a C6 and have been having problems. I'm sure the fluid could be changed along with the filter, but I heard that band adjustments were just temporary fixes...how's yours doing?

 

band adjustment on these tranies is regular maintanence (no spell check) you loosen the locking nut and then use a 3/8 12 piont on the square adjusting nut and torque to 120 in/lb then back it off 1.5 turns. now hold the adjuster steady and tighten the locking nut and you set. it will help your 1-2 shift and your 3-2 down shift.