I would start a new thread with your issue.
While you are doing that I would change the fuel filter. they cost about $10 and the tool to change them cost less than $10.

 

Thanks I will do that.

 

Rudy change your Electronic spark control module.

 

Here's a previous thread that might help: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-04-rager.html

 

I had the same codes after alot of basics and frustration I noticed water low in radiator and sure enogh I had a blown head gasket with a minor leak that would foul the plug on starts ran rough for a few seconds then cleaed up

 

The absolute first thing I would do when getting a misfire code is Change out the plugs and wires. These are general maintenance items that are often overlooked. I truly from the bottom of my heart recommend and believe in using only Motorcraft platinum spark plugs in all my fords, causes a lot less issues then using other brands.

There are other possibilitys that would cause you to get these codes.
-Faulty coil pack
-bad or leaking head gasket
-loss of compression (slipped ring or a crack in the block)

But before you go tearing your engine apart I would try a simple Plug and wire tune up.

The codes will not clear themselves from the computer for some time after you fix this issue so be ready to clear the codes after you do your tune up. Either with a scan tool (preferably) or by disconnecting your battery for a few minutes (will clear ALL sensor data including your emissions data!)

 

Did you change your spark plugs yet?

 

My misfire was fixed by a double shot of injector cleaner.

 

So I changed the spark plug and it ran good for 3 Days hundred and seventy miles. All of a sudden the check engine light came back on. Seems to be skipping a beat every now and then. Like it was before except for not bad at all not affecting the driving or the acceleration. I'll check the coach today but being a novice that baffles me as to why changing the spark plug would fix it for a while and then start acting up again.

 

So I changed the spark plug and it ran good for 3 Days hundred and seventy miles. All of a sudden the check engine light came back on. Seems to be skipping a beat every now and then. Like it was before except for not bad its not affecting the driving or the acceleration. I'll check the codes today but being a novice that baffles me as to why changing the spark plug would fix it for a while and then start acting up again. It's starting like it has before I changed the spark plugs.

 

Good idea to scan again for trouble code clues, as you might have more than one problem, like a bad plug wire, or bad new plug, or maybe you damaged it during installation, forgot to check/set it's spark gap, didn't get the plug wire reconnected securely, ect, ect, so recheck your work, rescan the computer & let the trouble codes steer your trouble shooting thinking. Post up All code Numbers & let us know what you find.

Consider beginning a new thread by clicking on the "Start New Thread" button atop the upper left corner of the forum thread index page stack, so you get answers just for your problem/s.

Post the url link to it here, so anyone following your trouble shoot can go there to see what you did & how things turned out.

Include the work you did here in the new thread, so it has continuity & a good foundation for folks that want to help, or need trouble shooting ideas for their like woes.

 

FWIW I noticed that there were no diagrams visible in the above posts on my end!

 

Give member Rockledge a PM & maybe he can put them back up?

 

If your looking for 3.0L vulcan cylinder ID/firing order info, THIS is a good source.

 

Well sethrich89 how is the misfire trouble shoot going?

Post up All trouble code clue Numbers you have, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

After thinking about this some more & you asking how this recurring miss might come about, I remembered that my Dealer top engine Tech had cracked the #6 spark plug insulator on installation of my brand new warranty replacement crate engine & I'd get a random miss, sometimes at idle, sometimes when under load & one day in a frog choking down pour, under load on a steep grade, I discovered that it was Way worse when it was damp out, or when it rained.
With this info they performed a "Wet Down" test to find the cracked external #6 plug insulator.

You can do this wet down test too. After dark, with the engine at warm idle, raise the hood & perform the wet down test by using a spray bottle of water to individually mist each plug wire, boot & the coil pack, while watching for a arcs & sparks light show, or listen for idle stumble, or change in idle speed, from faulty electrical insulation break down, cracked plug ceramic, or coil pack housing arcing to ground (the coil packs are known to crack & cause random miss woes).

More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.