Fitting kicker compvx in single cab
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
Here's the only way I can keep it straight. Serial killers add up the body count, So serial will add the resistance and parallel will divide it across the speakers equally. To end up in parallel, always put the + to + and - to -. Serial would have been + to -.
Now, at 2 ohms your 900w@1 becomes around 450watts. At 4 it's around 225 and at 8 it's around 112w. I think this is how it goes.
Now, at 2 ohms your 900w@1 becomes around 450watts. At 4 it's around 225 and at 8 it's around 112w. I think this is how it goes.
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Size (IN.,CM) 15, 38
Impedance (OHMS) 2 or 4 DVC
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 2000/1000
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 92.3
Frequency Response (Hz) 18-500
Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 8-1/4, 20.9
Mounting Diameter (IN.,CM) 13-7/8, 35.2
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.8, 51.0
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 5.2, 147.0
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 3.0, 85.0
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 5.0, 142.0
It's a compvx and this is the specs of the sub.
Technical Details
mono subwoofer amplifier
500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )
There is the specs of the amp and here is the link to it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014E2PD6/...l_84snt6ihaa_e
If I can't get 900W RMS out of it then please let me know and I will return it and get a different amp. Thanks, Tyler.
Impedance (OHMS) 2 or 4 DVC
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 2000/1000
Sensitivity (dB 1w/1m) 92.3
Frequency Response (Hz) 18-500
Mounting Depth (IN.,CM) 8-1/4, 20.9
Mounting Diameter (IN.,CM) 13-7/8, 35.2
Min Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 1.8, 51.0
Max Rec Sealed Box Volume (CU. FT., Liters) 5.2, 147.0
Min Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 3.0, 85.0
Max Rec Vented Box Volume (CU. Ft., Liters)** 5.0, 142.0
It's a compvx and this is the specs of the sub.
Technical Details
mono subwoofer amplifier
500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz at 24 dB per octave)
bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz )
subsonic filter (15/25 Hz, 18 dB/octave )
There is the specs of the amp and here is the link to it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014E2PD6/...l_84snt6ihaa_e
If I can't get 900W RMS out of it then please let me know and I will return it and get a different amp. Thanks, Tyler.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
Do you have 2 or 4 ohm DVC subs? A single DVC with 4 ohms each will put you at 2ohms in parallel. However if you have two DVCs, then the 2ohm coils can be done in series parallel to keep you at 2ohm. Since the speakers can handle 1kW, then the 900w should be fine.
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At least I was on the right track with the connections though. looking at your last post. How the heck are you proposing to run a DVC in "Series parallel?" My math has it figured as:
Let's say DVC with 2x 2ohm Voice Coils
1Ohm in Parallel (+ to +, - to -) since it's resistance / 2
4 ohms in series since it's resistance x2
or Let's say DVC with 2x 4ohm coils
2 Ohms in Parallel
8 Ohms in Series.
I might be off on something though or I'm just missing a trick with DVC's?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I couldn't remember if he's got one or two so I thought it was worth noting.
Run each (2ohm)speaker in series(add) for 4ohms, then the two speakers in parallel(Divide) for 2ohm.
For two 4ohm DVCs, then it's the speaker in series for 8ohm and the pair in parallel for 4ohm.
If all the speakers match you always end up with the impedance you start with when using 4 speakers (4 coils in any case.)
Run each (2ohm)speaker in series(add) for 4ohms, then the two speakers in parallel(Divide) for 2ohm.
For two 4ohm DVCs, then it's the speaker in series for 8ohm and the pair in parallel for 4ohm.
If all the speakers match you always end up with the impedance you start with when using 4 speakers (4 coils in any case.)
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Ok that makes more sense if there are two speakers. I was trying to figure out how you got there with only one.
I just awoke from my perkosett induced afternoon nap and thought that I said two 2ohm coils in parallel would still be 2 ohms. You can see where my day is going.
I think he's only got one DVC sub though.
Ugh another one of those days. I'll be happy when I'm up off the couch again.
And that is a friggin steal on a monoblock subwoofer amplifier. $165 for 1000w!
I just awoke from my perkosett induced afternoon nap and thought that I said two 2ohm coils in parallel would still be 2 ohms. You can see where my day is going.
I think he's only got one DVC sub though.
Ugh another one of those days. I'll be happy when I'm up off the couch again.
And that is a friggin steal on a monoblock subwoofer amplifier. $165 for 1000w!
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And...now that we've had our own conversation, I guess it might help to try and answer extacie's question 
From the last bit on the spec's, I still can't figure out if the sub is x2 4 ohm coils, or x2 2 ohm coils. I think it's x2 2 ohm coils since he said 2 and 4 ohms.
Extacie - if this is the case, you might try and hook up only one of the speaker inputs. That'll drive your amp at the maximum RMS output and keep it in a 2 ohm mode. It shouldn't effect sound quality to only drive one coil on the sub. Like ReAx said, if you run it in Serial (+ to - on the speaker coils) you will only get half the power out of the amplifier that it's designed to drive.
If you have an ohm-meter handy, stick it across the terminals of the sub and let me know what you get. Hope we haven't confused you too much!
From the last bit on the spec's, I still can't figure out if the sub is x2 4 ohm coils, or x2 2 ohm coils. I think it's x2 2 ohm coils since he said 2 and 4 ohms.
Extacie - if this is the case, you might try and hook up only one of the speaker inputs. That'll drive your amp at the maximum RMS output and keep it in a 2 ohm mode. It shouldn't effect sound quality to only drive one coil on the sub. Like ReAx said, if you run it in Serial (+ to - on the speaker coils) you will only get half the power out of the amplifier that it's designed to drive.
If you have an ohm-meter handy, stick it across the terminals of the sub and let me know what you get. Hope we haven't confused you too much!
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haha its fine and thanks. Well i am looking at the book and it has where i can wire the sub in parallel and in series. Below parallel wiring it says: "Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 1 ohm load" "Dual 4 ohm voice coils = 2 ohm load. For series wiring it says: "Dual 2 ohm voice coils = 4 ohm load" "Dual 4 ohm voice coils = 8 ohm load"
I currently have it wired in parallel. Does that answer how many ohms it is?
So you were saying hook it up to (--) or (++)? Or what did you mean by hooking it up to only one of the speaker inputs?
I currently have it wired in parallel. Does that answer how many ohms it is?
So you were saying hook it up to (--) or (++)? Or what did you mean by hooking it up to only one of the speaker inputs?
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
Yes. all positives together means parallel. If you have dual 2s, then your at one ohm and if you have dual 4s then you have 2ohms. (this only applies to use one speaker with dual voice coils, for this conversation.)
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I am not sure if it is dual 2s or 4s. So when I hook it up to the amp what should I hook it up to? Right now it is + and - on the far sides of each.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
That's going to be a problem. If it's dual 2s, then it's going to over work the amp most likely. I would put a DMM on it and make sure the impedance is greater than 1.5ohms (because it will probably not read exactly right, if it's 0.5-1.5 I would assume it's meaning 1ohm.) If it's reading 1.5 through 2.5ohm then you should be good to connect the positives together. I'm not sure on your amp which is the bridged output, but outside connectors sounds like a normal position for it.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
DMM is Digital Multimeter. It's the digital readout version of a volt/ohm meter. I have a nice fluke model, but really the $20 ones can do as much as you need.
Bridging an amp is when you take the two sets of outputs and only use one set. Different amps have different methods, but the ones I've played with used the two outside poles in bridged mode.
No problem, everyone learns at some time and I find teaching is the best method to learn.
Bridging an amp is when you take the two sets of outputs and only use one set. Different amps have different methods, but the ones I've played with used the two outside poles in bridged mode.
No problem, everyone learns at some time and I find teaching is the best method to learn.
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Oh alright thank you. My friend took a piece of wire and connected it between the positive and negative and then also had the other speaker wire hooked to the other positive and negative and he said that was bridging it. That didnt seem right to me so I took it out lol.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
So your saying LF+ to speaker + and RH- to speaker - (I'm just picking sides, don't take them as gospel.) Then he put a wire on LF- and jumped it to RH+? The amp should take care of that connection internally if it's bridgeable. I don't think it would harm anything, but it's not needed and looks cleaner without jumpers.