Fitting kicker compvx in single cab
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alright, thanks. ill see if i can put the carpet back and it still fit, but idk. it sounds good in my friends truck who did that. ig there is just differences in trucks? yeah i figured that with the tool box, my friends just dumb ahah.
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The quieter the inside of the cab, the less power you need to over come the road noise. Different designs have different sympathetic resonances, but everything I've been in that didn't have a floor covering was noisy.
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My friend was messin with it yesterday trying to bridge the amp and today i got the sub in there and it sounds good except my door speakers on the right side of the truck wont work. i can't figure out why. any suggestions/help?
Post Fiend
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From: Central Florida
If they don't work at all, then they aren't hooked up for some reason. Even blown speakers make a noise. You can try pulling the door panel and seeing it the connector fell loose, and then maybe check for AC voltage at the plug while you have it off. With the radio turned up, there should be some voltage at the plug (say 15v+). If you have no voltage than the problem is further up the wiring. If you have voltage, the wiring in the speaker is shot.
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okay, well i put the head unit to only power the right side of the door speakers and i cranked it up all the way and alls i got out of them was a little bit of noise. it sounded basically like someone was whispering the music in a fuzzy voice. they did not sound blown to me though. just like a whisper in a fuzzy voice. and it was hooked up to my ipod so the fuzzy part was not due to bad signal. Any suggestions on what might be wrong?
Post Fiend
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From: Central Florida
If you think the speaker is good, then there must be another path to ground for the power to travel. The music is AC voltage and Amperage traveling down the wires. If there is an easier path to ground (or the return) then it's going to take it first. Or you could have a bad connection jacking up the impedance so very little power is getting to the speaker. Either way, it's a wiring problem.
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okay, thank you. It's working fine now. I think it was just the aux wire was not in very well. I really am not sure. Thank God that it's working now though!
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You've been so nice helping me with this so I thought I would post pictures of the box that I just made. It took 5 and a half hours haha! Anyways, i'll also take pictures of it in the truck when i'm completley done with it. I still have to carpet it and stuff. What is the best way to carpet it? Like what kind of material? And what is the best way to get it to stick to the box? My friend suggested staples.. Any other suggestions?
The dimensions of the two boxes are: BOX 1 - 8.5" Depth, 21" Width, 21" Length. BOX 2 - 7" Depth, 21" Width, 19.5" Length. What would the CU. FT. of the box be? Thank you a BUNCH!!
The dimensions of the two boxes are: BOX 1 - 8.5" Depth, 21" Width, 21" Length. BOX 2 - 7" Depth, 21" Width, 19.5" Length. What would the CU. FT. of the box be? Thank you a BUNCH!!
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From: Central Florida
21x21x8 and 21x19.5x7. I'm going to guess those are external dims and you used 3/4mdf. so internals are 19.5x19.5x6.5 and 19.5x17.5x5.5 2471ci/1.43cf for box 1 and 1876ci/1.08cf, for a volume of 2.51cf.
I usually pick my material (I once did a confederate flag and used a fleece blanket as the batting), spray down a little 3M Super77 and wrap the box. The face being the most important side to me, it's the one I work hardest to get nice. Once it's stapled into place, I cut an X into the speaker's hole and trim out some of the extra.
If you look at some of the custom boxes professionally built they have a seem on the sides where the edges are tucked and the side panels have a different color piece.
I usually pick my material (I once did a confederate flag and used a fleece blanket as the batting), spray down a little 3M Super77 and wrap the box. The face being the most important side to me, it's the one I work hardest to get nice. Once it's stapled into place, I cut an X into the speaker's hole and trim out some of the extra.
If you look at some of the custom boxes professionally built they have a seem on the sides where the edges are tucked and the side panels have a different color piece.
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Yea. And now I just stuck the kicker in there to see how she fits just to find out that the box is about a half an inch shallow. the magnet touches the wood 
. How much room should I have between the magnet and the wood, does it matter? Because I have thought of a solution.. I can cut a hole in the back of the box big enough for the magnet (A little bit bigger and then replace it with another sheet of wood (This will give me about a half inch for every time I do this)
. How much room should I have between the magnet and the wood, does it matter? Because I have thought of a solution.. I can cut a hole in the back of the box big enough for the magnet (A little bit bigger and then replace it with another sheet of wood (This will give me about a half inch for every time I do this)
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From: Central Florida
Either way should do as long as it fits in the truck. I think not touching is enough clearance for the magnet, so if you can get 1/4" that should be great. Ideally I suspect you just don't want the speaker and back board to flex enough to touch.
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yea. i just got it in the truck and it's carpeted. (Junky job on the carpeting, but me and my friends were sort of in a rush to get it done lol) for some reason the sound quality is pretty good, but it just doesnt hit as hard as i thought it would. My amp will put out 900W RMS if it is wired at 1 ohm. How do I wire it to be like that? Thanks!
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Ohm rating depends on the speaker coil resistance. I think your comp is a dual 4 ohm, so the lowest you can get out of it is 2 ohms. You do this by connecting the red to red and black to black, and then hooking red to red on one side of the amp and black to the other side (bridged)
Again, I only "think" that you've got a dual voice coil sub. But you need to be careful - the compVR -7CVR15 (Kicker comp, 15") I found is only liseted for 500Watts RMS, so if you try and drive 900 into it, it'll pop.
what amp have you got? Also, keep in mind that a 15" sub is going to generate huge bass, but not generally "punchy" bass. Your box size and design also may have something to do with it. Smaller box - punchier bass, larger box, deeper longer bass tones.
Again, I only "think" that you've got a dual voice coil sub. But you need to be careful - the compVR -7CVR15 (Kicker comp, 15") I found is only liseted for 500Watts RMS, so if you try and drive 900 into it, it'll pop.
what amp have you got? Also, keep in mind that a 15" sub is going to generate huge bass, but not generally "punchy" bass. Your box size and design also may have something to do with it. Smaller box - punchier bass, larger box, deeper longer bass tones.