Rotted Sill Plate

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Jul 3, 2009 | 02:51 PM

#16

jroehl

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From: Lafayette, IN

The only problem with foam insulation is that it will conform to the shape of the shingles, potentially trapping water between the foam and the shingle, even if it's just moisture/condensation migrating through the cedar. Most of the wall would probably never have problems, except at the bottom. Cedar is generally weather/rot/insect resistant, but it does need to dry out occasionally. I would think the best thing to do would be to rip some strips of 1/2" cedar and use that. Pretty much everything else has potential compatibility issues.

Jason (a painter who's seen his share of rot)

Jul 3, 2009 | 06:38 PM

#17

ArdWrknTrk

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

Yes it's feasible, but I've never done it..

The backer board is available at almost any lumberyard around here.
It does 'breathe' a little and might help cupping by allowing moisture to get away from the back of the shingle.

http://www.cedarbureau.org/installat...troduction.htm

Edit: Dang, I didn't see Jasons response on this page.
(I've seen my share too.)

Jul 5, 2009 | 11:42 AM

#18

Nitramjr

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From: North of Boston MA

Nothing really new to report, just wanted to add some pictures.

Since I took the pictures I have cut out a 16" strip of the sheathing at the bottom. This got out 90% of the rotted plywood. At a couple of the windows I sill have to cut out a little bit more.

So, instead of the insulation, what if I just use and undercourse of cheap white cedar shingles?

Also, I was pretty careful taking off the existing shingles - what are some thoughts about reusing them? Painted side out or in? Would the painted side in cause moisture trapping problems? I am repainting everything white anyway so I have no problem putting the painted shingles back paint side out.

Jul 5, 2009 | 02:02 PM

#19

ArdWrknTrk

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From: EXTREME southwest CT

You can certainly reuse them. I would put the same (painted) side out.

That's not a lot of weight to support there, unless you have like 5 layers of roof shingles

From what I see in the last photo you should at the least take some tar paper (15 or 30# felt) and wrap it into the openings, lapping the corners, starting at the bottom side once you replace the sill and sheathing.
A metal pan, or adhesive membrane would be better.

Looks good!

You are wise to be taking the time to do it right.

Edit: I missed the question about cedar undercourse. No, I wouldn't do that. Too many seams and the taper would make the top course look very funny in comparison to the rest of the wall. Why can't you find the backer board? It is treated to be water repellent.

Jul 6, 2009 | 06:43 AM

#20

Nitramjr

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From: North of Boston MA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Edit: I missed the question about cedar undercourse. No, I wouldn't do that. Too many seams and the taper would make the top course look very funny in comparison to the rest of the wall. Why can't you find the backer board? It is treated to be water repellent.

Why? Because I am naturally lazy and haven't looked past the home improvement big box stores that I drive by daily. We have a couple good lumber yards not too far away that I need to look at but I haven't bothered yet.

Thanks for the help, gents.

To be continued......

Jul 6, 2009 | 08:39 AM

#21

megawatt00

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From: Rochdale MA

Quote:

Originally Posted by tseekins

Try this web site or try www.thisoldhouse.com

http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchi...gordepoxy.html

On this old house they have featured the use of apoxy fillers a few times where dry rot and vermin have taken thier toll. At least your working with a slab and not a crawl space.

You could probably build a temp wall inside the structure to carry the weight long enough for you to effect your repairs.

Please be very careful my friend.

Tim

That is the link that I first thought of.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitramjr

It is the load bearing rear wall of the entire garage/breezeway so it is carrying some weight. At least I never put the family room above the breezeway like I wanted to.

My plan is to do about 12' or so at a time. I have about 4' from the rear corner that has no sill damage at all so I am going to lap joint into that so I don't have to deal with stripping the corners out. I know that sounds a little half-assed but I can live with that. I will be using PT 4x6 for the plate and will be installing insulation strip on the foundation. There is nothing there now. I will also be drilling in some anchor bolts since the original doesn't have any on this wall. I have to check the code to see if I need to add a second plate on top of the sill plate. Presently there is nothing and the studs are toe-nailed into the sill plate. I can't toe nail to save my life so I will probably use the Simpson angles for both the existing and any new studs I decide to add. The existing studs don't show any rot anyway.

I have a lot of work ahead of me but I think if I do a five or six hours a day on it while I am on nights and then a few hours each afternoon once I go back on days, I can have this done by the end of July, maybe mid August. That doesn't include the new windows I still have to put in......

Ken - a GTG sounds like fun and I'd love the help but nobody deserves this mess but me. I would be willing to pay for assistance if anyone around me is looking for work. Most of it I can do alone but some of it will require a second set of hands.

Thanks for the advice so far.....

If you pre drill a hole with small drill bit it makes toe nailing much easier

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nitramjr

Nothing really new to report, just wanted to add some pictures.

They make an under coarse shingle that is all full of knots very cheap. They are grade "C" IIRC

If possible build a temp wall on the inside using a few 4x4 as supports. Then you can remove the sections as you need to replace the rotted part. I had to do this when adding a sliding galss door in a 165 yo house that I owned. The door went inbetween the old part of the and the older (more than the 165) I had to put a header in. This was so old that there were trees that were used for studs in some parts of the house.