Help no start
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Help no start
I am posting here hoping to get some directions. I was pulling a enclosed trailer last week, and the truck started to skip/shutter. It finally cut off, and has not ran since. We replaced the CPS, and ran a snap-on tester. It showed rpms, 10.5 volts, and 2500psi crank pressure. Where to go from here? I pulled the ds valvecover, and the plug is secure, and the plug/wires seem fine. I did a ohm test, and need more info on what's in limits and out.
What if your ohm readings on the injectors are off from the 3.6, but not OL? Where can you check to see if anything is coming from the IDM, and what should it be? I need help badly as this is my only ride, and it's been down for a week. I ran a snap-on test, and it has 2500psi cranking, and rpms, so the hpop and CPS seem fine.
Thanks!!
What if your ohm readings on the injectors are off from the 3.6, but not OL? Where can you check to see if anything is coming from the IDM, and what should it be? I need help badly as this is my only ride, and it's been down for a week. I ran a snap-on test, and it has 2500psi cranking, and rpms, so the hpop and CPS seem fine.
Thanks!!
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Sounds to easy, but have you checked your oil level? These trucks need to be full on oil to operate the HPOP to fire the injectors. Just a thought.
Post Fiend
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Can you post up what readings you got on your injectors? Did you check the passenger side too? Readings below 5.0 ohms are supposed to be good, but what you're looking for is consistency. Is your truck missing on 4 cylinders or just one?
If one injector is reading about 1 ohm different than the others, unplug that injector, clear the codes with the engine off, and then try to start it. If your missing on 4 injectors and the truck starts to run better (but still miss) when you do this, then that injector solenoid is likely an issue. If you're just missing on one injector, unplugging a bad one will not make a difference in how the truck runs.
Can you run a contribution test with the scanner? If you're only missing on one cylinder, that test should tell you which one.
If one injector is reading about 1 ohm different than the others, unplug that injector, clear the codes with the engine off, and then try to start it. If your missing on 4 injectors and the truck starts to run better (but still miss) when you do this, then that injector solenoid is likely an issue. If you're just missing on one injector, unplugging a bad one will not make a difference in how the truck runs.
Can you run a contribution test with the scanner? If you're only missing on one cylinder, that test should tell you which one.
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No smoke when cranking, we are pretty sure it's not getting fuel(don't see or smell any). Can I test for voltage coming from IDM? I am going to re ohm the injectors, as some read fine, I had one about 18, and one way up like 200(which I doubt is right)
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From: Texas
Your post in the other thread had me confused. I'll agree with the above, with a no start and no smoke, ohming the injectors isn't something you need to try yet.
10.5 is borderline on the voltage, so keep a charger on the batteries. Does the wait to start light come on and go off like normal? If you can't hear the fuel pump come on with the key, or the fuel bowl is empty, you need to start there.
10.5 is borderline on the voltage, so keep a charger on the batteries. Does the wait to start light come on and go off like normal? If you can't hear the fuel pump come on with the key, or the fuel bowl is empty, you need to start there.
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Tried my IDM in a buddies truck and no start. So the IDM is bad, and I'm going to replace it. Question is which is the better to get? 100 110 120? Mine had the 110 in it.
Thanks for the help so far!
Thanks for the help so far!
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