Ok guys .... Mine is a 78 f100 2wd w/ 351

My truck was dragging when I tried to start it after it was run for a while.
Sooo I replaced the starter solenoid...

When I started it it sounded a lil odd then died , but it sounded
like something was still running even though the engine had stopped . I popped the hood and saw smoke ! I shut off then key and startedto look. The new starter solenoid was real hot & so was the starter cable and the one that grounds the engine . The ground to the engine melted the wire insulAtion right off . The starter was very hot to the touch .

I swapped the old starter solenoid back in and tried to start it .

Nothin not a click , nothin!

I think I prob fried the starter but what else
is prob fried ?

Thaks for any help you can give

 

Charge the battery, it was probably instantly drained when everything was shorting out.

And next time, when the starter is dragging butt, it is either the battery, the starter, the heat, your ignition timing or combination of the above causing the problem.

Not the solenoid.

Josh

 

Could have also burned the fuseable link or links that come off the starter solenoid.

These are replaceable as well.

 

K - good to know but why would just sapping the solenoid cause all this to go down? I swaped it wire for wire old to new as to not lose track where they belong ..

 

Can you buy those fusable links at a local parts store?

 

Just a guess, but it isn't too hard to bolt the starter power wire and have it contact the inner fender or manifold/ headers.

Do your lights still work? If they work your fusible link will be fine, if not you may have to check the fusible link.



Josh

 

Everything still works lights , signals , radio - the alt light is on and no start

 

Run a jumper from the + post of the solenoid to the "S" post and see if the starter spins.

When doing this test makes the vehicle is in park/ neutral.

If it does then the solenoid is at this point considered good. Next step will be testing the "S" post wire.

You sure you didn't mix the wires up? Brown wire goes on "I", Red/Blue goes to "S"

Josh

 

well I know I hooked it the exact way it was hooked up before I took off the fender wall and removed one post and attached the wires to teh new one as to not mix them up .. if they were wrong before i dunno ...

The truck is stuck somewhere else right now so what the run down if I jump the poles and it spins the starter whats next -- and what next if it doesn't spin the starter

I have had the truck for about 3 days at this point and also noticed that if it was driven for 20 - 30 min , if I shut the truck off and went in the store and came back to it it hesitated and wanted to stall after it was started and the rpms would drop and the alt light would come on

I don't know if this is linked the org issue I was trying to solve of teh sluggish /lagging start after the truck was driven for a little bit -- engine temps have been fine oil psi is also good

 

Sounds like you need a new battery.

If you "hot wire" the solenoid and the starter engages the solenoid can be considered OK. If it doesn't spin, the solenoid is bad.

Now, if it passes you'll need to check for voltage at the red/blue "S" post wire with the key in the "start" position. You'll either need a test light or a buddy to help read a multimeter for the test.

Josh

 

so based on info prior to meltdown --

I am looking at a battery (for the stall/ alt light prob ) and a starter ( sluggish warm start prob ) at least . plus the replacement of melted solenoid to starter wire and the one going to ground

then test the solenoid ....

I have to buy the parts on the way home


is it possible my alt light issue is the volt regulator gone bad? I wasn't thinking alt itself .. no lights dimming or classic bad alt signs

any thoughts on parts to get

 

The Voltage Regulator can be tested at most local parts stores, (autozone, Kragen etc...) the same as the altenator.

 

This tells me the battery is on it's way out, and with the shorting out I would definately look into replacing it.

I don't suspect the alternator is bad, but it wouldn't hurt to have it tested.

As for the starter, it's tough to say if it is truly a problem until you have a good, charged battery to power it. Along with that make sure the cables are up to snuff. Don't use wimpy 6G cable, use at least 2G. I run 00 welding cable on mine.

Josh

 

thanks for the input .. I decided to buy a battery , starter and volt regulator as a just in case if the first two don't work punt type option .

the autozone I went to didnt have a 2ga starter wire for some reason .. any idea what the wire coming from the starter solenoid to the engine would be called -- I see a lot of switch to ground wires out there but not sure if that is what it is being called

 

They are Called, Battery Cables, Starter Cables, Ground Cables. 4 Gauge is the most common, but 2 Gauge is better.

This above quote here has me concerned. Don't you mean Starter Solenoid to Starter Cable? This is a positive wire, not a negative ground wire.

Or are you talking about the Red/Blue wire that comes from the Ignition switch, that triggers the solenoid?

Or are you talking about the (Factory Color) Black/Yellow Fuse Link that goes to the ignition switch, or the black/Red fuse link that goes to the altenator?

Edit: None of these are ground wires.