tbm3fan, more pictures please! We would like to see that whole truck. Keep up the good work.

 

Yeah I am going to color sand and buff it out. I have to waite about a week before I can do it though because I used Acrylic Enamel. It takes forever to fully cure compared to urethanes. Well I will never cheap out again. I am also going to use Base Coat Clear Coat from now on. This is the second Full Paint Job I have done and I learned chapter from it so as long as I am learning everything is ok. There will be a next time in fact we have already started my sons truck.

JRB65

 

tooterturtle,
Thanks for the info and I like the Idea of taping the edges. I noticed I got a little thin on the top rail of the bed near the edge where it 90's into the bed and I think your tape idea will keep me on the safe side. I have decided to use 1500 then 2000 grit to do my color sanding then a real light buff. It should shine ok as long as I dont get to heavy on the buffer. What product do you use to buff out after you color sand? I have been using Maguires Dimond Cut. My neighbor said that there are actually two buffs that you should do, one a cut buff ant then the final shine buff. He restores Old GTO's and they look like mirrors when he's done with them. I am getting the bed ready to shoot a liner into next week also. I think the black bed liner will finish off the truck and make it look a lot cleaner. I have been debating on how to finish the engine compartment as well. The firewall is kinda dirty and I need to get some oven cleaner down in there and see if I can get some of the 40+ years of grime to clean up. I am going to tape off the engine compartment and paint the inner fenderwells before I do the color sand just in case I get some over spray on the truck. So much to do. Thanks again for the info.
JRB65

 

JRB65, McGuires diamond cut works very well, but remember it can cut quickly, so a light touch with the buffer. If you use too much pressure you can make too deep a swirl pattern and make it next to impossible to remove. McGuires high polish wax will be a great finish to the buffing.

On taping off the edges, get a 3/8" wide roll of striping tape and center the tape over the hard edges, like the raised area on the hood and all around the door, fender and hood edges. Once you are done using the diamond cut, remove the tape and finish off the buffing with the polishing wax, you won't be able to see where the tape protected the edges.

Good luck on bringing out the deep shine you are looking for.

 

I know many others swear by Sure Finish as both a compounding and polishing solution depending on the pad being used. 3M 1500 and 2000 is one way or another is 3M Finishing Film 1500 with an interface pad and then Trizact Hookit II 3000 disks. On a fender I use my hand while the flat hood I can use the Finishing Film and the Trizact.

 

tbm3fan,
Thanks for the info,
It looks like I will be doing the cut buff and polish this Wednesday so keep your fingers crossed that I dont buff through the paint. I spent most of today working the few runs with a razor blade and 1500 grit wet sand paper and luckily didn't gouge through the paint. I need to tape off the truck in preperation for the sanding and buffing. I put the hood back on the truck and the bed and now I kind of wish I had left them off because I think it would be easier to sand and buff them.
JRB65

 

tooterturtle,
Have you ever used a product called System One? It is a kit that has a wool buffing pad and all the products in it to buff out a new paint job. The company claims that you cant buff through the paint with their system. I am a firm believer in Murfies Law so I am going to tread lightly but am interested in giving it a try.

JRB65

 

I got through the Color Sand without going through the paint anywhere so I think its going to buff out ok. I am knocking on wood just in case Mr. Murphy is listening. I have decided to waite to buff it out and let it dry some more until after I apply the Bed Liner. this weekend.
JRB65

 

I love your truck!
So shinny and smooth...