Bed bolt removal
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 1
From: Winnipeg Canada
Bed bolt removal
What is the most efficient way to remove the carriage bolts from the box? I don't care about the box because it's toast and the bolts are so rusted I can't remove them. I can't even get a nut splitter on some of them. They've been soaked with WD-40, hammered on, heated etc.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Burning off the heads doesnt work, The shank of the bolt will not go thru the bed. Weld large nuts on to the head of the bolt(weld it right) and impacting it off while holding the nut w a wrench.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 25
From: NJ
If you don't care about the bed I'd grind the heads and/or bed and pull the bed off, then enjoy more room to work. Either grind or sawzall them off at that point.
Also, WD40 sucks as a penetrant. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil. Few heat/soak cycles loosens most stuck fasteners.
Also, WD40 sucks as a penetrant. Get some PB Blaster or Kroil. Few heat/soak cycles loosens most stuck fasteners.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
i had to use a cutting wheel to cut the heads of the bolts (i didnt care about cutting the bed up because i was getting another one) when the head came off the bolts they slipped through and i removed the bed, afterwards i just came back in with the cutting wheel and cut the bolts in half to take them off. when i put the new bed on i welded the head of the bolts to the bed so i could get a good grip. I took the truck to the body shop and i had to buy yet another bed so they trashed the other one wit the welded bolts. When they installed the new bed they got vise grips to hold the bottom of the bolt while they used a wrence to tighten the nut.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
As stated you CANNOT just grind the heads off and pull the bed off (unless your cross bars are rusted to hell).
They are oval shaped and are shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off only makes them HARDER to remove.
Weld something on to the heads and have someone hold them while you get underneath.
It's not so easy to burn them off from the bottom either because of the gas tank. You cannot safely get at them without removing the tank.
Also, I would try and save the bolts if you can. New ones are about $15 EACH from the dealer.
They are oval shaped and are shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off only makes them HARDER to remove.
Weld something on to the heads and have someone hold them while you get underneath.
It's not so easy to burn them off from the bottom either because of the gas tank. You cannot safely get at them without removing the tank.
Also, I would try and save the bolts if you can. New ones are about $15 EACH from the dealer.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
As stated you CANNOT just grind the heads off and pull the bed off (unless your cross bars are rusted to hell).
They are oval shaped and are shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off only makes them HARDER to remove.
Weld something on to the heads and have someone hold them while you get underneath.
It's not so easy to burn them off from the bottom either because of the gas tank. You cannot safely get at them without removing the tank.
Also, I would try and save the bolts if you can. New ones are about $15 EACH from the dealer.
They are oval shaped and are shoulder bolts. Cutting the heads off only makes them HARDER to remove.
Weld something on to the heads and have someone hold them while you get underneath.
It's not so easy to burn them off from the bottom either because of the gas tank. You cannot safely get at them without removing the tank.
Also, I would try and save the bolts if you can. New ones are about $15 EACH from the dealer.
It's a pain in the neck however you do it.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 399
Likes: 1
From: Winnipeg Canada
I have all the bolts from the 95 box except one (had to be ground off). The missing bolt (one of two) has the square shank so I think it may be the same as the older 80-86 bolts. I checked at my Ford dealer and they want $150 for a kit of 6 bolts and nuts for a 95 box and they're not available individually. I'll try LMC and get a couple of bolts for the 80-86 box. The 95 box uses 4 lozenge shank carriage bolt and 2 square shank carriage bolts.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
Ever seen grade 5 bolts fail when you have about 1000-1500 lbs of something in the back, the load shifts and and bed comes flying off?
That's why.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
I compromised on the two beds I did, and used 1/2' carriage bolts. To get them tight, I put two flats on the rounded part of the bolt so I could get someone to put a adjustable wrench on them to hold them till I got them tight. I used large enough washers so the square part of the carriage bolt fit down into the washer.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: South Western Ontario
No I have not seen grade 5 bolts fail, especially 8 of them at once. There is a place near me called Fastenal, they could supply me with a bolt and nut with any strength I need. Whether it be for holding planes, trains, or massive presses together I'm sure they would be up to the challenge of holding a box to truck. Not a 100 % but I think so.