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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Bed bolt removal

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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #16  
Bern_F150_4x4's Avatar
Bern_F150_4x4
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Maryland
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I have removed two beds by grinding the heads off the bolts. It seems the ones I took off had a big enough hole in the crossmembers for the shoulder to fit through. It's a pain in the neck however you do it.
Yep, grinding the heads off did the trick for me too; I didn't even screw up the bed. I learned the process here by doing of all things, a search! It does take some time, like 25 minutes to get all six ('86: 4 oval shank and two square) your time may vary... I used a grinding disk on the HF 4 1/2" on its edge for bulk removal, then rotated it flat for fine removal. You can cut the bolts at the frame with a cutting disk once the bed's off. One advantage is that you dont "round out" your oval bed pass-thru holes. Screw Ford and there $150! Get used bolts from Mikes Truck Salvage or other southern used parts venue, go new (LMC etc) or go with Grade 8 replacments from a reputable supplier. I welded my "bolt stubs" to a piece of 3/16th plate and impacted the nuts off for re-use. I love my Hobart!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #17  
bill11012's Avatar
bill11012
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Hometown Pride
Why dont people use regular nuts and bolts, when there tight they shouldn;t move even if there is a bit of play when you put them in.
That is how my trucks bed is on.
I also have the 15K goose neck mounted with 4 1/2" grade 5 bolts.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2009 | 12:21 PM
  #18  
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Diesel_Brad
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From: Gilbert, PA
yes. Dont waste your money on "BED" bolts. Just go the the hardware store and get grade 5 1/2" bolts of the right length
 
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