Top has been cut;;;pics
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From: I live in Mustang, OK
Top has been cut;;;pics
I got the top cut. I have a 1 3/4 over lap. I new I would, My question is would it be easier to do pie cuts or just 1/4 the top and fill in the T in the top.
RUSTY
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: South west Idaho
Thats a lot of cut, I can't give you any advice, I will leave that to the experts and follow through your project as I have two cabs to practice on and one to get right , LOL . I was thinking of 1/4 the top and fill in or make a cap cover over it all from another cab as I have three, If I don't screw all of them up , LOL . good luck we are all watching . JIM
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From: OKC, Ok
The absolute best way and the only way I recommend to chop a top is to have at least the upper half of a donner cab and the doors. This method keeps the welded joints at a minumum and therefor keeps fills, warpage, and loss of cab structural strength at a minumum also. Tom
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Outbanks, NC
With as much as you need to cut, I would say do the T thing. Then you only have a few welds, instead of a pie concept, where who knows how many welds you will end up with. Be prepared for warpage, as that is a lot of welding to be done. Might take a few days waiting on the metal to naturally cool. Do you have any cab parts. What are you going to fill with.
And wasn't the whole point of this deal to get a mail slot window. What happened. Looks like you kept the rear window whole.
And wasn't the whole point of this deal to get a mail slot window. What happened. Looks like you kept the rear window whole.
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From: Glen burnie MD
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Posting Guru
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From: I live in Mustang, OK
I have another top and doors, And yes I wanted a mail slot back window but decided to take out 3 or 4 inches not the whole 5. Rusty
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From: Mustang ,OK
1/4 top, long weld seam across a predominantly flat surface
pie cut, maybe more welds by linear inches, but in a more forgiving curved surface.
welding in the middle of a body skin intimidates me. I think you'd want to hammer weld such a seam to offset the inherent weld zone/HAZ shrinkage.
JML
pie cut, maybe more welds by linear inches, but in a more forgiving curved surface.
welding in the middle of a body skin intimidates me. I think you'd want to hammer weld such a seam to offset the inherent weld zone/HAZ shrinkage.
JML
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From: I live in Mustang, OK
JML;;; I don't know anything about hammer welding. I am a halfa## spot welder. I was told to tack weld the top until it was all welded, and that is what I plan on doing. LOL. With lots of KOOOOOL down time. RUSTY
Cargo Master
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From: South west Idaho
Keep lots of koooooool stuff on hand to drink as you wait on the welds to kool done LOL . It's like watching paint dry . I went though that when I welded a full skin on top of my 4 /door sedan, I spot welded just like you are planing to do . I had some warpage because I got in to big of hurry ,so take your time.
Laughing Gas
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From: Mustang ,OK
hammer welding involves shucking your welding gear as soon as you finish a spot, and hammering it (on dolly?) while still hot/very warm to fight the shrinkage. It's the method the no-filler guys use.
JML
JML
Roast em' if you got 'em
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Rusty, you're a brave man...woohooo, the truck is looking good (nice job on the engine)
I tell you what, I'll do my part on your top chop, I'm more than happy to kick back and take care of some of that "waiting for the welds to cool while partaking in a frosty beverage" stuff. Heck, I'm ready to start helping right now.
Good luck with it you're doing great!
Bobby
I tell you what, I'll do my part on your top chop, I'm more than happy to kick back and take care of some of that "waiting for the welds to cool while partaking in a frosty beverage" stuff. Heck, I'm ready to start helping right now.
Good luck with it you're doing great!
Bobby
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From: northwestern Ontario
I'd 1/4 it as those cabs a narrow enough already and like was said, go slow with your welds. You didn't even look slightly nervous in those pics, nerves like the steel your cutting,lol.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
I've already given detailed advice/how to in your previous topic. One last try: have the glass cut BEFORE you weld the top back together or make any changes to the A pillar angles to be sure the glass will fit afterwards. It's easy to adjust the metal to fit the glass, near impossible to change the glass to fit the metal. Do what's easy rather than trying the impossible.
Stretching out the heat shrinkage can be done cold if the right rod was used. It's just easier to do while the bead is hot, and the hot bead is less likely to crack, but it is harder to determine how much stretching is needed. Best to do any stretching as you tack, it's much more likely to be sucessful and controlable. once you weld the seam solid with shrinkage, it will lock in that shrinkage, making correction near impossible for anyone short of Chip Foose. Do all your metal finishing outside in the direct sunlight rather than in the comfort of your shaded and cool shop, otherwise the first time the sun heats up your nice smooth metalwork it will end up with more waves than the ocean.
Stretching out the heat shrinkage can be done cold if the right rod was used. It's just easier to do while the bead is hot, and the hot bead is less likely to crack, but it is harder to determine how much stretching is needed. Best to do any stretching as you tack, it's much more likely to be sucessful and controlable. once you weld the seam solid with shrinkage, it will lock in that shrinkage, making correction near impossible for anyone short of Chip Foose. Do all your metal finishing outside in the direct sunlight rather than in the comfort of your shaded and cool shop, otherwise the first time the sun heats up your nice smooth metalwork it will end up with more waves than the ocean.
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