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Ok here goes i bought a 1992 ford f150 302 with an AOD tranny test drive went ok lacked some power but its an old truck so i figured it needed some maintance well i get it home and it starts running really bad no power and it shakes when i drive like when you shift to early in a manuale, it also wont hold overdrive on highway. 170,000 miles
New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, Map sensor and fuel presure regulater.
Here are my guesses, Bad fuel filter, clogged cat, tranny needs servicing. But its been a while since i had my 87 so im just looking for advice on what u guys think.
Sorry for the bad poast but its late and im tired thanks for any and all help.
Your exhaust is factory? Do you have any money to just blow? If so, you could cut off your cuts and replace them with one three way cat, and cheap Autozone muffler of your choice. I'm sure your cats aren't in the best of health anymore.
not money to blow but i need it to run what if i just cut the pipe to see if it fixes it if not just weld it back up. And i disconnected a vac line to and drove it like that and it ran the same so im gonna check for some vac leaks to.
Okay Sir, if you don't have money to blow don't go hacking up your exhaust. Get the codes pulled first. Here's a link on how to pull your own codes; Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test
I still don't think adding a cheap exhaust from the manifolds back could hurt, though. Those cats are old.
On second thought, your cats might be fine. I thought your truck was an '85, sorry. My '94 had stock cats (200,000 miles) and they were fine. I did notice a power increase when I had my old cats removed tho.
After pulling the codes, and fixing anything that shows up, then check the engine with a vacumn gauge. It is quick, cheap, and can help point you in the right direction. You can quickly rule out cat problems among other things. How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge
Good Luck Frank
Either the FAQ or FordFuelinjection.com can help you interpret the codes. You should probably replace the Air Charge temperature sensor and possibly the Throttle position sensor. After that read the codes and see how the truck runs.
Before you pull the engine on codes, you have to get the truck good and hot. During the test you are supposed to briefly press the gas pedal to the floor. Failure to do this will typically give you codes like 112 and 122. The ACT and TPS might need replacing, or not. Depends on how you did the test. The TPS can be checked with a simple multitester electric meter. Since the TPS is pretty expensive, I would check it and the plug connections before replacing it, even if the test proceedure was done correctly.
The ACT is pretty cheap, and if it is original, I would probably replace it even if it didn't give a code. When I pulled mine after 170K miles, there was no code, but it was so built up with baked on carbon, that it was hard to see what it really looked like.
Good Luck Frank
i did it with the key off but i will try to do it with it running and let you know how it turns out and i don't know if you saw my post about how when it warms up it gets worse but i thought that might help.