Ok so after doing key on engine running it came up 11 im pretty sure anyway but then i tried key on engine off and i cant make sense of what its saying it makes no sense at all it did one where it was beep puase beep pause beep pause beep it just makes no sense.

 

Any help on this guys you fixed my old truck and sadly i sold but im hoping to bring the old one back in this one. but the new one doesn't even run right at all and im having a hard time trying to read the codes i am using a little device i bought for my old truck that plugs into the dionostic port but its not making sense and i don't even know if my truck should have 2 digit or 3 digit codes my old one was 2 im pretty sure but this is a 92 but has no mass air so its OBD 1 im sure of that but i just need some guidence form you guys. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

PS. I took Monday off to hopefully tackle this problem that's why i'm desperate for info. My plan is to replace cats with pipe for now, replace vac lines, check TPS, put a restrictur plate on the egr valve incase its stuck open just to test it and and thats all i have for now.

 

1991 was a switch over year to the three digit codes. So your truck should have the three digit code read out.

 

ok so i just did a compression test on cylinder 5 and came up with 85 psi so im thinking its not good but i was just wondering on your thoughts.

 

ok so i did it 3 cylinders on the driver side and came up with the same 85 and on the other side i got about 100

 

I started to write that you had pretty bad compression numbers, then I stopped to look on the web and see what numbers are typical for the 5 liter. Been several years since I have had one. I found some guys saying they were seeing around 125 on a well used engine, but I also found this very good explanation of how to do a wet test and a leak down test. If your compression numbers are as low as you reported, I would expect to see a lot of blow by, and or oil smoke from the exhaust. These two tests may help pinpoint the problem. I had a 302 many many years ago that showed low compression and would barely run. Turned out it had jumped time. Replaced the timing chain and gear and drove it several years .
Here is the test explanation. I found it very well written, so I just copied it. I would add the caution to only use a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder when performing a wet compression test.
Good Luck Frank
Compression test should be done with all sparkplugs removed and throttle plate held open (for consistent vacuum) and the same number of compression strokes. I count them and make sure to use enough to let a normal cylinder build to full pressure. You can also perform a “Wet Test” where motor oil is placed in the cylinder to help seal the rings in a “bad hole” and if the pressure doesn't increases substantially you can assume that the leak is past a valve.

You can get more specific results with a Leak Down Test. In a Leak Down test a set regulated air pressure (say 100 psi) is introduced into the cylinder and the retained pressure in the cylinder is measured. If the retained pressure is 80 psi, then you have 20% Leak Down, it’s that simple. A good race motor with Total Seal type rings may have anywhere from 2% to 8% Leak Down, a production vehicle can have considerably more with standard rings and be in perfect condition.

When performing a Leak Down test it is important to test all the cylinders at the same point in their stroke (usually tested at TDC, but testing at various points in the stroke can identify cylinder wall damage at different the points) and with the valves totally closed (this is usually done by removing or loosening the rocker arms) and the engine recently run to clear any obstructions (corrosion) from the valves and seats.

The cool thing about a Leak Down test is that you can listen to where the air is escaping from to identify where the problem may be.

Bad rings/broken piston – listen to the oil filler cap, valve cover breather, oil dipstick tube.
Bad exhaust valve – listen to the exhaust pipe.
Bad intake valve – listen to the carburetor/throttle body.
Bad head gasket (cylinder to water jacket) – look for leakage into the cooling system.

 

Ok so after some confusion i got all cylinders checked and they checked out all right (the gauge was off) but anyway i drove it today and it was ok still ran ruff but had power could actually cruise 60 in OD but then after it warmed up it lost power again and began to sputter like it was running out of gas and had little power so im confused again.

 

If your truck has an E4OD you will have 3 digit codes.
If you have a standard or AOD (not computer controlled) transmission the you will have 2 digit codes.

To read your CM codes or check for other types of codes and to run the self test go to one of these links below:

This is good for the KOEO test:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

This one is good for the KOER test:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=94

Or get a code reader, here is a good one.
The EQUUS #3145
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...CodeReader.jpg

 

i have a cheap autozone code retriever and i have an AOD so i will have 2 digit codes they should make a lil more sense now thanks ill try again and report back.

 

OK so good news i hope anyway i went out and did both tests KOER and KOEO and both came up with system pass so just for fun i took it for a drive and it ran ok to me it felt like any other 302 ( i know they dont have much get up and go). So that made me feel better but it still has probs like when you hit third gear under 30 it shakes like shifting 2 early in a manual and at 50 when going into overdrive also at take off it is still gutless. Every time you take off its sorta stalls out like its running out of gas than after that it is fine until you hit those other trouble areas i talked about o and it when you slow down and take a corner then floor it it does the same cut out thing but it usually only does it once or twice.

Ok and i feel like im getting close to a solution and can feel good about my purchase so if anyone can get me through these last few little issues i would really appreciate it thanks for all of your guys help so far.

PS. I have not had a chance to change the fuel filter yet but will do so soon hopefully and if you think that is the culprit let me know and ill do it when i get off work tonight.

 

You will need a tool to change the fuel filter.

 

what kind and how much will it cost me. Whene i look under the truck it looks like you just pull the pins off and the filter comes right out

 

You might be right. I am not sure what type a 1991 has.
If you have the type that has the hair pins that pull out 90 degrees to the line then you do not need a toll and the lines just pull off. If you do not have the hair type pins then you will need a tool.

 

ok got the new filter and tool put the tool on the line but it sill will not budge no matter what i try it wont move what could be the prob.

 

Could be the wrong tool not going in far enough. A lot of the auto part stores still sell the old garter spring tool that is used on the A/C system and at the fuel manifold on your truck.

When you go to remove the filter spray WD-40 in each release point.
Then turn the Fuel Filter to break the "O" ring away from the filter.
Push the line in to wards the filter. While holding it there push the tool all the way in to release the fingers.
Then while holding the tool all the way in pull the line off the filter.

The Tool I use:


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