Help with my I-Beams
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 3
Help with my I-Beams
So I got my 1966 I-Beams out of storage for the first time in about 6 months and ran into some problems. First off the passengers side I-Beam is bent I believe. I compared it to the I-Beams off the 74 F100 I-Beams that im taking the disc brakes off of and they definitely seem bent. I got some pics of them. I wasn't planning on using the complete I-Beam setup from the 74 onto my 66 but I guess I have to now. Im going to be using DJM drop beams with them as well.
Here's the bent 66 I-Beams.
Here's the 74 F100 I-Beams. You can see the difference compared to the bent 66 I-Beams.
Here's my questions:
Is their any problem on using the 74 I-Beams with the DJM drop beams?
Do I need to use the springs off my 66 or the 74?
Also one more thing what is the best way of getting the nut off of this bolt? I need to get it off to put the drop beams on and me and my dad broke our breaker bar on it lol. I sprayed PB blaster on it but it didn't even seem to phase it.
Here's the bent 66 I-Beams.
Here's the 74 F100 I-Beams. You can see the difference compared to the bent 66 I-Beams.
Here's my questions:
Is their any problem on using the 74 I-Beams with the DJM drop beams?
Do I need to use the springs off my 66 or the 74?
Also one more thing what is the best way of getting the nut off of this bolt? I need to get it off to put the drop beams on and me and my dad broke our breaker bar on it lol. I sprayed PB blaster on it but it didn't even seem to phase it.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,564
Likes: 4
From: Tucson
OK first off the bolt, apply some heat to it, (a propane torch will do), that should help expand the bolt some, then try with another cheater bar.
the other part is called the raidus arm, either one will work under your truck.
if you need a original replacement, i have extras i can part with that are not bent, just send me a PM.
the other part is called the raidus arm, either one will work under your truck.
if you need a original replacement, i have extras i can part with that are not bent, just send me a PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
The only thing that works on those pesky center bolt and nut is a torch. Heat on the nut and tighten it then loosen. As for the bolt itself hope it is not stuck in there, again heat and a shop press will get it out possibly.
Looks like the forged radius arms are bent, common as they are meant to do that in a hit. They can be straightened on a shop press and i would re use the forged radius arms on the AIM beams. The i beam axles themselves are not reused as they are replaced by the AIM beams.
Garbz
Looks like the forged radius arms are bent, common as they are meant to do that in a hit. They can be straightened on a shop press and i would re use the forged radius arms on the AIM beams. The i beam axles themselves are not reused as they are replaced by the AIM beams.
Garbz
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 3
Thanks for the advice on using a torch. Ya the radius arm is what I was concerned with sorry I didnt mention that. What if the bolt is damaged can we just buy a replacement bolt the same length and diameter? After some measuring the springs are a different length so I will use the 66's springs. Thanks for the offer Bill W I may take you up on it. Thanks for all the advice everybody I really appreciate it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
Regarding the F100-F250 '65-'66 front coil springs;
I believe the NumbrDummy stated that FoMoCo offered three different coil spring GVW ratings, which were distinguished by paint stripes when new.
If you're lucky, the stripes are yet still visible.
Never the less, the stripes were:
1055# -- 6 cyl only use -- Rside had yellow stripe - Lside had a blue stripe.<o></o>
1175# -- 6 or V8 use -- Rside - red stripe -- Lside - grey stripe.<o>
</o>1250# -- 6 or V8 use -- Rside orange stripe -- Lside - green stripe.
In addition, it's my understanding that the springs were of different "free" heights from left (such as 16") vs. right (15 5/8") tall. The taller spring would be on the drivers (left) side and would be thinner (0.677") wire diameter than the passsenger's (right) side coil (0.705"). This was to presumably to compensate for the engine offset to the passenger side.
I don't know what coil springs were available for a '74 F100...
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
<o></o>
I believe the NumbrDummy stated that FoMoCo offered three different coil spring GVW ratings, which were distinguished by paint stripes when new.
If you're lucky, the stripes are yet still visible.
Never the less, the stripes were:
1055# -- 6 cyl only use -- Rside had yellow stripe - Lside had a blue stripe.<o></o>
1175# -- 6 or V8 use -- Rside - red stripe -- Lside - grey stripe.<o>
</o>1250# -- 6 or V8 use -- Rside orange stripe -- Lside - green stripe.
In addition, it's my understanding that the springs were of different "free" heights from left (such as 16") vs. right (15 5/8") tall. The taller spring would be on the drivers (left) side and would be thinner (0.677") wire diameter than the passsenger's (right) side coil (0.705"). This was to presumably to compensate for the engine offset to the passenger side.
I don't know what coil springs were available for a '74 F100...
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
<o></o>
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
.
In addition, it's my understanding that the springs were of different "free" heights from left (such as 16") vs. right (15 5/8") tall. The taller spring would be on the drivers (left) side and would be thinner (0.677") wire diameter than the passsenger's (right) side coil (0.705"). This was to presumably to compensate for the engine offset to the passenger side.
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk<O></O>
In addition, it's my understanding that the springs were of different "free" heights from left (such as 16") vs. right (15 5/8") tall. The taller spring would be on the drivers (left) side and would be thinner (0.677") wire diameter than the passsenger's (right) side coil (0.705"). This was to presumably to compensate for the engine offset to the passenger side.
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
The spring height isn't the only determining factor. Because the left side coil spring wire diameter is smaller, the spring has a lesser weight rating. Recall that if you take a coil spring, cut a coil off of it, it becomes stiffer. The more coils, the softer it is. The heavier wire diameter, the stiffer it is. Same thing is happening here. Less coils, heavier wire diameter, makes for a stiffer right side coil spring - resisting the extra weight bias to the right side. In order to provide the same ride height with the weight bias to the right, they had to put a stiffer spring on the right side. So the factory had to make each spring with a different height and different wire diameter. If they were both the same diameter and same height, then the truck would not sit straight.
BarnieTrk
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
Nope. Now I'm not an engineer, but this is how I understand it:
The spring height isn't the only determining factor. Because the left side coil spring wire diameter is smaller, the spring has a lesser weight rating. Recall that if you take a coil spring, cut a coil off of it, it becomes stiffer. The more coils, the softer it is. The heavier wire diameter, the stiffer it is. Same thing is happening here. Less coils, heavier wire diameter, makes for a stiffer right side coil spring - resisting the extra weight bias to the right side. In order to provide the same ride height with the weight bias to the right, they had to put a stiffer spring on the right side. So the factory had to make each spring with a different height and different wire diameter. If they were both the same diameter and same height, then the truck would not sit straight.
BarnieTrk
The spring height isn't the only determining factor. Because the left side coil spring wire diameter is smaller, the spring has a lesser weight rating. Recall that if you take a coil spring, cut a coil off of it, it becomes stiffer. The more coils, the softer it is. The heavier wire diameter, the stiffer it is. Same thing is happening here. Less coils, heavier wire diameter, makes for a stiffer right side coil spring - resisting the extra weight bias to the right side. In order to provide the same ride height with the weight bias to the right, they had to put a stiffer spring on the right side. So the factory had to make each spring with a different height and different wire diameter. If they were both the same diameter and same height, then the truck would not sit straight.
BarnieTrk
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 3
I did not know the information about the springs. This truck was an originally a 6 cylinder I believe but had a small block v8 swapped in. I plan on putting a small block v8 back into it so do I need to get different springs or will the springs I have be ok? Lol Ive read this forum a lot the past year but I had no idea there were 3 different sets of springs used on these trucks. Any advice is appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Have 65 F100 that had the I-6 and kept same springs when swapped for the small V8. Also kept the same springs with the P/S upgrade. Suggest, if already have not done so and can afford it, have bushing replaced while the unit is disassembled. Salvage the I beams from 76 donor and found the bushing race on one of them was not within allowable limits and I had to find a replacement. Fortunately found this out before installing.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
I agree with Dave on both counts:
First - Since your plan is to install a small V8, I'd keep & use the same coil springs that came in the truck. If you are still concerned, it may ease your mind if you do some research and determine the weight of the 6-cylinder that came in the truck originally and compare it to the weight of the V8 you want to install.
Secondly - I'd change out the axle pivot bushings while you have them out of the truck. It is easiest now, they aren't that much $$ and then you won't need to concern yourself about them from here on...... These are the bushings located at the frame end (not the wheel end) of the I-beams.
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
First - Since your plan is to install a small V8, I'd keep & use the same coil springs that came in the truck. If you are still concerned, it may ease your mind if you do some research and determine the weight of the 6-cylinder that came in the truck originally and compare it to the weight of the V8 you want to install.
Secondly - I'd change out the axle pivot bushings while you have them out of the truck. It is easiest now, they aren't that much $$ and then you won't need to concern yourself about them from here on...... These are the bushings located at the frame end (not the wheel end) of the I-beams.
Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 3
I will keep my springs from the 66 on this truck I just wasnt sure how big of deal it was if I didnt have the springs for v8. As for the bushings everything will be new on this truck when it comes to bushings so their definitely on my to do list. Thanks for all of the advice I appreciate it.
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