sliding window
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,259
Likes: 17
From: Gambrills
Welcome to FTE spaz!
I am sure many here have replaced them and you will find your answers (what ever they are) here.
This site has literaly saved me thousands of dollars. I am sure it will save you alot also.
Again, welcome!
I am sure many here have replaced them and you will find your answers (what ever they are) here.
This site has literaly saved me thousands of dollars. I am sure it will save you alot also.
Again, welcome!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Spaz, Welcome to FTE 
I have never done that particular job but............unless you have some glass removal/installation experience I would sure leave that job up to the pros. Don't have to worry about damage to the slider and no leak insurance. IMHO
Rog
I have never done that particular job but............unless you have some glass removal/installation experience I would sure leave that job up to the pros. Don't have to worry about damage to the slider and no leak insurance. IMHO
Rog
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 2
From: Ft Scott
I bought one out of a junk yard and put it in with my sons help. It's not a bad job and only took us a couple hours and we learned as we went. All the back windows from 73 to 97 are the same and interchangable, mine was from a 76 F100.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster County PA
Not at all hard. At least not when I did it to my 82 150 then my 88 250.
Lets see if I can explain well enough.......
First of all, unless they changed them since 88, the rear window is just held in place by its own gasket. Since the flange of the gasket is obviously larger than the window hole, the trick is to pull the gasket through the hole from the outside in. In other words, when viewed from the end of the window the gasket is "U" shaped. The object is to pull the inside vertical leg of the gasket in through the hole cut in the back of the cab.
I did this by taking a long piece of clothesline (or a similarly slim and strong cord of some kind and laid it in the channel of the "U" around the entire perimeter of the window. Make sure you have a piece long enough to go around the entire window with at least a foot left over on each end. I suggest the the overlap of the rope occurs at the bottom of the window.
This is much easier with a helper, but can be done on your own. Have your helper position and hold the window with the bottom edge of the window resting appropriately in the window opening with as much of the inside edge of the gasket tucked inside the cab along with the ends of your rope. Once you get that bottom edge started, hold the window snugly to the cab opening. You go inside the cab and gently start pulling one end of the rope further and further into the cab. (hold onto the other end of the rope so it doesn't all just pull through) As you are doing this, it will drag the inner flange of the gasket past the opening and into the cab. Just work your way all around the window pulling the rope (and subsequently, the gasket) into the cab.
You may find it useful to spray the gasket with a little soapy water solution to make it slipperier and slide past the rough opening edge easier.
That is the best way I can explain it. Maybe someone has pictures. It really should take less than 5 minutes to put the new one in.
BTW, you get the old one out by simply pushing out from the inside of the cab. Start in one corner and fold the gasket flange back and outwards through the rough window opening.
You'll have an excellent understanding of the process after you have removed the old window.
Hope this helps!
Lets see if I can explain well enough.......
First of all, unless they changed them since 88, the rear window is just held in place by its own gasket. Since the flange of the gasket is obviously larger than the window hole, the trick is to pull the gasket through the hole from the outside in. In other words, when viewed from the end of the window the gasket is "U" shaped. The object is to pull the inside vertical leg of the gasket in through the hole cut in the back of the cab.
I did this by taking a long piece of clothesline (or a similarly slim and strong cord of some kind and laid it in the channel of the "U" around the entire perimeter of the window. Make sure you have a piece long enough to go around the entire window with at least a foot left over on each end. I suggest the the overlap of the rope occurs at the bottom of the window.
This is much easier with a helper, but can be done on your own. Have your helper position and hold the window with the bottom edge of the window resting appropriately in the window opening with as much of the inside edge of the gasket tucked inside the cab along with the ends of your rope. Once you get that bottom edge started, hold the window snugly to the cab opening. You go inside the cab and gently start pulling one end of the rope further and further into the cab. (hold onto the other end of the rope so it doesn't all just pull through) As you are doing this, it will drag the inner flange of the gasket past the opening and into the cab. Just work your way all around the window pulling the rope (and subsequently, the gasket) into the cab.
You may find it useful to spray the gasket with a little soapy water solution to make it slipperier and slide past the rough opening edge easier.
That is the best way I can explain it. Maybe someone has pictures. It really should take less than 5 minutes to put the new one in.
BTW, you get the old one out by simply pushing out from the inside of the cab. Start in one corner and fold the gasket flange back and outwards through the rough window opening.
You'll have an excellent understanding of the process after you have removed the old window.
Hope this helps!
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Tried to rep ya, have to spread it around though ..
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,743
Likes: 2
From: Ft Scott
Not at all hard. At least not when I did it to my 82 150 then my 88 250.
Lets see if I can explain well enough.......
First of all, unless they changed them since 88, the rear window is just held in place by its own gasket. Since the flange of the gasket is obviously larger than the window hole, the trick is to pull the gasket through the hole from the outside in. In other words, when viewed from the end of the window the gasket is "U" shaped. The object is to pull the inside vertical leg of the gasket in through the hole cut in the back of the cab.
I did this by taking a long piece of clothesline (or a similarly slim and strong cord of some kind and laid it in the channel of the "U" around the entire perimeter of the window. Make sure you have a piece long enough to go around the entire window with at least a foot left over on each end. I suggest the the overlap of the rope occurs at the bottom of the window.
This is much easier with a helper, but can be done on your own. Have your helper position and hold the window with the bottom edge of the window resting appropriately in the window opening with as much of the inside edge of the gasket tucked inside the cab along with the ends of your rope. Once you get that bottom edge started, hold the window snugly to the cab opening. You go inside the cab and gently start pulling one end of the rope further and further into the cab. (hold onto the other end of the rope so it doesn't all just pull through) As you are doing this, it will drag the inner flange of the gasket past the opening and into the cab. Just work your way all around the window pulling the rope (and subsequently, the gasket) into the cab.
You may find it useful to spray the gasket with a little soapy water solution to make it slipperier and slide past the rough opening edge easier.
That is the best way I can explain it. Maybe someone has pictures. It really should take less than 5 minutes to put the new one in.
BTW, you get the old one out by simply pushing out from the inside of the cab. Start in one corner and fold the gasket flange back and outwards through the rough window opening.
You'll have an excellent understanding of the process after you have removed the old window.
Hope this helps!
Lets see if I can explain well enough.......
First of all, unless they changed them since 88, the rear window is just held in place by its own gasket. Since the flange of the gasket is obviously larger than the window hole, the trick is to pull the gasket through the hole from the outside in. In other words, when viewed from the end of the window the gasket is "U" shaped. The object is to pull the inside vertical leg of the gasket in through the hole cut in the back of the cab.
I did this by taking a long piece of clothesline (or a similarly slim and strong cord of some kind and laid it in the channel of the "U" around the entire perimeter of the window. Make sure you have a piece long enough to go around the entire window with at least a foot left over on each end. I suggest the the overlap of the rope occurs at the bottom of the window.
This is much easier with a helper, but can be done on your own. Have your helper position and hold the window with the bottom edge of the window resting appropriately in the window opening with as much of the inside edge of the gasket tucked inside the cab along with the ends of your rope. Once you get that bottom edge started, hold the window snugly to the cab opening. You go inside the cab and gently start pulling one end of the rope further and further into the cab. (hold onto the other end of the rope so it doesn't all just pull through) As you are doing this, it will drag the inner flange of the gasket past the opening and into the cab. Just work your way all around the window pulling the rope (and subsequently, the gasket) into the cab.
You may find it useful to spray the gasket with a little soapy water solution to make it slipperier and slide past the rough opening edge easier.
That is the best way I can explain it. Maybe someone has pictures. It really should take less than 5 minutes to put the new one in.
BTW, you get the old one out by simply pushing out from the inside of the cab. Start in one corner and fold the gasket flange back and outwards through the rough window opening.
You'll have an excellent understanding of the process after you have removed the old window.
Hope this helps!
YES!
I'm sure glad you typed all that out. I was afraid I was gonna have to explain it and with my 2 finger typing I'd have been here all night.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
Likes: 99
From: Ashland City, TN
I know I need to replace mine.
It had a decal on it when i baught it, and the decal is burned into the rear window tint. Pluss there is the fact that non sliders just suck!!!!!
To bad mine got busted when the truck was flipped back over.
I should see if i could rebuild it. Hmmm. gotta go down there and grab the few things left. Got them hid up against the bank of the ditch.
It had a decal on it when i baught it, and the decal is burned into the rear window tint. Pluss there is the fact that non sliders just suck!!!!!
To bad mine got busted when the truck was flipped back over.
I should see if i could rebuild it. Hmmm. gotta go down there and grab the few things left. Got them hid up against the bank of the ditch.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Reps sent to ckal704 for the write up.
When I got mine, was put by a pro, but I was looking at, and really I could did it myself with a helper (better) and save some money, but my comment is that they do every thing what is written in the write up from ckal704, and noticed that took more time to take out and vice/versa the parts inside the cab, than to change the window itself.
BTW: x4 the welcome for spaz416
When I got mine, was put by a pro, but I was looking at, and really I could did it myself with a helper (better) and save some money, but my comment is that they do every thing what is written in the write up from ckal704, and noticed that took more time to take out and vice/versa the parts inside the cab, than to change the window itself.
BTW: x4 the welcome for spaz416
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
William, If you need a new slider rear window look here:
It's new w/o gasket $50
FORD BACKGLASS SLIDER
It's new w/o gasket $50
FORD BACKGLASS SLIDER