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Anyone Ever Change an Oil Pan Gasket Without Lifting the Engine?

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Old 06-16-2009, 11:38 AM
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Anyone Ever Change an Oil Pan Gasket Without Lifting the Engine?

Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone has changed an oil pan gasket (00 F350 SD, 4x4, 7.3L) with out lifting the engine or cutting the cross member? Or should I just drop the pan as much as I can, clean it the best I can and add RTV and bolt it back up?
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:51 AM
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The gasket is RTV to start with. Kind of hard to clean up without removing the pan, but it can be done.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:10 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I didn't realize that you couldn't buy a gasket for these and now I see you have to use a special RTV from Ford or International.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:49 PM
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Not really good to leave the engine in. After all, you have to clean out the RTV which is really hard to do. Next you have to turn the engine upside down so the oil doesn't ever touch the RTV while it cures. All hard to do while on the truck.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:13 PM
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Haven't heard on this forum too talk about pan gaskets leaking.. are you sure the thing is leaking?
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:27 PM
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There was a member here that cut the crossmember with a cutting torch, replaced the pan, and then welded the crossmember back together again.

There's a thread here somewhere with pics from the job.

It's not something that I would reccomend but it has been done.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
There was a member here that cut the crossmember with a cutting torch, replaced the pan, and then welded the crossmember back together again.

There's a thread here somewhere with pics from the job.

It's not something that I would reccomend but it has been done.
I wouldn't cut my crossmember apart. After all, I would think it weakens the structure. Also, how will you stop the oil dripping onto the RTV?
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:38 PM
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Like I said, I would never do it. Now sure how you would keep the sealing surface dry, that would be tough.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
Like I said, I would never do it. Now sure how you would keep the sealing surface dry, that would be tough.
I imagine if you keep the pan off for a week, you might get away with it but why do that when it is easier to take the engine out as opposed to cutting and welding, hoping it all works out? And if not, what then? Cut and weld again?
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:37 PM
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I can attest to the fact they leak oil for days to weeks after you pull the pan...
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD
I can attest to the fact they leak oil for days to weeks after you pull the pan...
And that is my question. How can you be sure it has stopped leaking when you put the sealant on? Also, if you are going to wait weeks for it, isn't it easier to take out the engine and turn it over? Not to say faster.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys! I won't attampt to do it with the engine in then, no piont in trying something that won't fix the problem.

I'll clean everything agian and make 100% sure that is were the leak is. I know the front leak is either coming from the front main seal or the pan and the back leak is from the EBPV.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:25 PM
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There's a few (more simple) things that could be leaking up front as well. Have you considered some fluorescent dye for the oil to help narrow it down? I'd hate to pull a motor for a bad gasket in the HPOP reservoir or something.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:36 PM
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No I haven't but sounds like a great idea before pulling the engine. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll start looking for some.
 
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:14 AM
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I picked up some dye this morning. Hopefully I'll get a chance to use it over the weekend.
 


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