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I ordered a P.I.E. adapter today for my 06. The unit states that it now includes 5v charging. Stupid question, will this unit also power my Ipod Touch? I'm looking at different mounting solutions for my truck and how I will power the Ipod.
Well the 5v seems high, I thought USB power was 4.5v max. When you plug it into a computer, there are four wires in the USB connector, 2 for signal and 2 for power. It sounds like they have a voltage reducer to provide clean 5v for the power wires in the harness.
I used to have an adapter that hooked to my OEM stereo in my 02 F150 for my Ipod and the chargers n stuff. Well I don't have the Ipod anymore, (dropped it on the pavement getting out one day), and I think I still have all the stuff somewhere in my tool room. If you need it, just PM me the shipping address.
When I emailed PIE I don't think they ever got back to me...
at the moment, yes... that charger should charge any iPod product that it can plug into. I have a PIE adapter and an iPod Touch 2nd Gen.
The tricky part is, and i haven't found a good solution yet... if you hardwire the adapter into the "always on" 12v like they say to, the memory gets spotty and you no longer have music until you reset the adapter by pulling the fuse for whatever you connected it to.
I don't know if it is just my particular one or if that problem is common.
Current solution:
I connected the + wire to the same circuit that powers the radio, so the adapter is only powered when the radio is on... Whenever I turn the truck off, the adapter resets and is ready to go again next time...
this works great EXCEPT... since the radio and adapter get power at the same instant, normally the radio beats the adapter, and the adapter is not recognized. When this happens I just turn the engine off, and then back on again to cycle power to the radio... for some reason, this seems to work. ...if i think about it before i start the truck, i just act like my 5.4 has a "wait to start" light and delay the transition from Run to Start with the key...
The alternative solution is to attach the + wire to a toggle switch (upfitters won't work since they aren't always powered with the radio...and a few other reasons). This is just a little easier to reset than pulling the fuse.
The planned solution:
I started this a while back, but haven't been able to get around to it...
I am trying to work out a way to splice the adapter into both the radio circuit (so the adapter remains powered when the key is removed, but the doors haven't been opened) and a circuit that is hot in run and start (I don't have any backup camera stuff or cruise control, and my XL has a ton of unused wiring...so this may be an XL solution only)... i am isolating the two circuits from being backfed with a diode on each line This setup should give the adapter constant power from the moment your key hits ACC to when your key hits OFF and a door is opened while the radio works normally.
I did the install last night. It could not of went easier! I removed the dash but did not unplug any of the wire harness from it. I was able to remove the radio and get everything plugged in. I did not have to tap into any wires etc for power!! The adapter that plugs into my 2nd gen Ipod touch provides power to the unit. My only complaint is that once I choose a song or artist and it starts playing the Ipod locks up? I have to shut the radio off to access the Ipod and switch artists or playlist. Maybe this is common, not sure? I highly recommend the logjam product, and it was not manf., by P.I.E.
I think the soundgate may be a little more solid...
but it looks like whatever is causing your problems may be harder to fix than mine.
If I was to get another one, I'd probably get the soundgate over the PIE.
How stable did the 1/8 "remote" connection seem?
The major obvious difference is that the Soundgate taps into both the 24 and 16 pin connections. It seems that they were smart enough to make that one reset itself periodically. I don't think anything more than the constant power and the "run" power are used on the 24 pin connection. The PIE also connects to the 16 pin adapter, but that is where the sound and head controls pass through.
The PIE unit uses all positive connections. one is similar to a serial port on a computer; has screws on each side that make sure the connection doesn't back off. The other has a plastic clip that must be depressed in order to disconnect. If you ever have a problem with the connections on the Soundgate vibrating lose, that's the main reason (and the extra $30) that i didn't get it. If that never happens, maybe I'm just paranoid about having to rip into the dash everytime I take a washboarded road.
Ah, I did have some concern over the connection not locking in! The remote 1/8 seemed fine, I guess I will find out over time. The rest of the stuff you mentioned is a little over my head when comparing the two units. Thanks for the info I appreciated it!!
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