93 E4Od FIPL switch????
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93 E4Od FIPL switch????
Have 93 F250 w/7.3 IDI Auto. Three weeks ago got the blinking OD light so took it in to have code checked. Said the FIPL switch was out of factory adjustment. Worked fine till yesterday. Could this switch truely go out of adjustment? Is a new switch more of a permenant fix vs adjusting again? Also when I first start truck, Volt needle bounces around and E brake light pulses for about a minute then stops. Any connection? .
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
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From: back in SE Iowa
f the od light is blinking it could also be the tach sensor.is the truck shifting weird?the fipl is an easy adjust if it just needs calibrated.im not sure about the brake light pulsing though.i suppose it could be related
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E4Od FIPL switch????
Truck is shifting hard which is what it did last time time OD light was blinking. Tach is working fine. No problem there. Where is this FIPL switch? Is it something I can recal. myself? Just bought this truck 2 months ago so still learning where everything is.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
The sensor you are referring to is basically a throttle position sensor. it is located on the driver's side of the injector pump. Before running the code scan, you have to block the throttle to the wide open position (engine off, key on) or you will get a false FIPL sensor code. Also make sure the climate control system is off.
If you still get the same error code again, then proceed to testing the sensor with a volt meter to verify that there are no dead or flat spots in the travel range. The range should be between 0.8-1.2V at idle and 4-4.5V at WOT.
If you still get the same error code again, then proceed to testing the sensor with a volt meter to verify that there are no dead or flat spots in the travel range. The range should be between 0.8-1.2V at idle and 4-4.5V at WOT.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,409
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From: back in SE Iowa
the blue line is where you want to get your voltage reading from which is the middle wire.i cant figure out how to make everything readable.lol what program do you guys use?the red line on the left points at the bolt you need to loosen to adjust it.its a pretty straight forward deal
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,132
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From: Baldwin, ND
It is gray with a black connector on it. There is an easy procedure if you want to check it and verify its within the range it is supposed to be.
Here it is:
Here it is:
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Laughing Gas
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
To set FIPL to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine.
Now with "Key On Engine Off". First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.
If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.
Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle) shut off the engine.
Now with "Key On Engine Off". First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.
If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.
Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.
lol yours is a better pic i think though
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New User
Joined: May 2009
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93 E4Od FIPL switch????
Thanks for all the pic's and information. Turned out to be frayed wires going to the switch. Read about it on another post so check it out. Once I fixed those everything was good. Switch setting was still within specs. from last time it was fixed. .
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