1993 E150 with 5.8. Need to change AC compressor clutch. How to do and what type puller do I need. Service manual not have info.

 

No pullers needed.
-Remove the 5/16" head center bolt and slide the clutch plate off. Might need to nudge it with a screwdriver.
-Remove the snap ring holding the pulley in place. Slide the pulley off. Persuade with screwdrivers if necessary.
-Using 2 bigger screwdrivers, pry the clutch coil off. Tap the new coil in place with a wood block.
-When installing the clutch plate, be sure to shim the clutch gap to about .015"-.020".
-Use a dab of Loctite on the center bolt.

 

Thanks After looking I think I'll replace compressor to. It's not that much more.

 

If you're going to replace the compressor, also replace the accumulator. It's 16 years old.

 

Thanks. I bought a compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. It's got a rear air too. The new compressor has oil in it. Do I need to add additional oil or do you think it's ok since there was 134 in it when I discharged (system was converted). Any other tricks I need to know. Thanks again

 

Your converted system "should" have BVA-100 Ester oil in it, your new compressor will have PAG-46 oil. It's not good to mix them. Look on the conversion tag for the oil type, if there is one. By law there is supposed to be a tag. If not, you're working totally in the dark.

If the new compressor contains the whole (~10-14 oz) oil charge, that's way too much. Does the mfgr. specify exactly how much oil is in the compressor? Many companies add only a few ounces of oil for shipping.

Assuming BVA-100 Ester in the system, I would drain ALL the oil from the new compressor while spinning the clutch by hand until it stops dripping, then add back 4 ounces of Ester and rotate the clutch 10 turns. Drain again and repeat. Then add back 4 oz of Ester oil to the compressor.

You never mentioned why you needed to replace the clutch, and I forgot to ask. What happened to the clutch? That could be very important to know before you replace the compressor.

 

Those are excellent points. The clutch bearings went south. After taking off the outer part of clutch and trying to turn the compressor, the compressor appears to be frozen up.

 

Be sure to look close at the old orifice tube.
If the compressor is frozen, it may have grenaded and filled the system with debris. That could have caused the clutch bearing to fail. If so, the entire thing will need to be flushed and some other parts replaced. That's no fun at all on a dual system, but absolutely necessary.
If you're lucky, it froze because the front bushing overheated due to the bad pulley bearing. If the orifice is reasonably clean, you're good to go.

 

Thanks again for the input. The orafice had a few metal filings in screen. If I had the system flushed, which I understand is a real pain, what other parts have to be replaced. I'm tempted to roll the dice and evacuate for 3 hrs and refill.

 

Any time you replace a compressor (any time an older system is opened, actually), you need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube at minimum.
Keep in mind that most of the o-rings in the system are 16 years old and replacing them all would be cheap insurance against future leaks.

It sounds like your compressor failed internally which caused the clutch bearing to fail. Without seeing the amount of debris, it's hard to guess what the right "next move" should be. A "few" metal filings is very subjective. The condenser is a Parallel Flow design. Each tube that you see on the outside has 5-6 tiny passages inside of it. It's very possible that a lot of debris is trapped in the condenser which can't be reliably flushed out.

Here's what I would do, at minimum, if it were my vehicle:
-Replace the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and condenser.
-Inspect the rear expansion valve inlet screen for debris and clean it.
-Solvent flush the high side lines (condenser to orifice front tube and condenser to rear expansion valve.).
-Add back the recommended amount of the proper oil.
-Evacuate and recharge.

Anything less and you risk destroying the new compressor. The time, effort and money would then be wasted.
You may be able to find an AC shop that can "closed loop" flush your condenser and ask their opinion about it's condition.

 

Thanks for the input. Sounds like you have been there before. I just took the compressor apart and it looks like new inside. No sign of failure. It just might have been the pulley but it was no getting it off without pulling the compressor thats for sure.

 

I called the compressor mfg and they recommend flushing entire system removing both condensors, etc. because I don't know how much oil is in the system. Not sure how much I want to invest in this. Said system should have 13 oz. of oil when emply. Old compressor only had couple ounces in it. Wonder what would happen if I threw a couple oz. in compressor couple in accumulator and go for broke.