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No Start...not even a click?

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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 08:34 PM
  #16  
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jwstrand
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Sounds like an ignition switch to me.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #17  
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OldSkewl 79
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From: Sainte Genevieve, Mo
an idea.. just happened to me yesterday

I went to bump my starter to turn over the crank to set timing and nothing.. not a click,horn wont work everything dead.. well after looking and tracing everything. it was the ground strap to the engine to body *firewall* DUH!!!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 11:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by tm0231009
Ok Took the starter off, it was bad, put the new starter on, still nothing. Put a Ford Alternator on, nothing, Good battery. When I turn the key, none of the dash lights come on, there is no dome light, nothing again. Could it be a bad ignition switch? How do I even check that?
Most likely fusible link. Ignition switch has nothing to do with headlights, do those work?

Josh
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 12:51 AM
  #19  
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Alvin in AZ
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I've been reading lots of old posts lately because I've been researching
Ford computers and about MAF and O2 sensor wiring and all that. :)

Amazing how certain guys worked so hard at answering guys questions,
they'd stop and do some research and get back to them and stuff like
that then you go to their profile to see if they have a website or some
place he's stored reference material to keep from having to repeat the
same stuff over and over, you know? :)

....and find out they haven't posted in 4 years! LOL :)

I've seen it on FTE I guess a guy just gets burned out or something? :/
Like Torque 1st, whatever happened to him?

Alvin in AZ
 
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Old Jul 17, 2009 | 03:12 PM
  #20  
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It's overwhelimg lately with the "no start" and "brakes won't work" questions lately.

Remember Mil 1 ion?

Josh
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 05:17 PM
  #21  
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Al Ohms
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F250 no start

I have a F250 w/460. It wouldn't start one day due to extreme cold, cranked slow but no start. I charged the battery for a few hrs. All systems working but no stat, not a click. I checked terminals for corrosion, etc. While replacing the grnd on the solenoid I heard a clicking sound. With everything back on and tight the truck started. If I shut it off and leave it for several minutes it won't start again. It will start if I try immediately after shutting it down. I wonder if it's the solenoid itself or or maybe a bad connection somewhere else. Any ideas?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #22  
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What do you mean you replaced the ground on the solenoid? The solenoid grounds by mounting to the fender (which is grounded through a ground strap attached to the firewall). There's no ground wire or anything like that - unless you meant you just cleaned up the mounting surface.

When you leave it for a few minutes, and try to start it, and it doesn't start - do you still not hear a click? If this is the case, then the next time you're in this situation, remove the wire from the 'S' post of the solenoid, and check it for power while someone in the cab turns the key all the way over to START.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2011 | 11:53 PM
  #23  
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F250 no start

fmc 400

My mistake. The "S" post is what I meant and where I removed the cable and cleaned the post, although it
wasn't really corroded. When I replaced the cable I heard a slight click and then I could start the truck. It starts that way every time. Tonight I had to do that same thing and crossed the two posts with my wrench, accidently, on the solenoid and the starter kicked in but the ignition was off. I got in and started the truck with the key. I need to check things out with a meter to see where I've got power. I'll try the idea you gave and see what happens. I'm thinking it may be the solenoid but I'm not totally convinced of that.

Thanks for the reply and advice.
Al
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 02:43 AM
  #24  
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leadsled56
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if you have no power to anything then you need to check you grounds. even with a dead battery you would get something like dome lights or dash lights. if you changed from a ford alt to a 1 wire chevy alt then you should check the wire going from the alt to the battery. also pull the battery terminals and clean them. it sounds like something pretty simple that you are going to kick yourself for not checking in the first place. if like you said, you have a good battery then you have something wrong right there at the battery / connections. you don't just lose all power just like that. it eventually goes away. the only battery out there that drop off immediately are Li-po batteries but those are not built for cars.
 
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