Fuel Additives
I know a lot of guys do it, and it's probably been used for that for 40 years. Worked great in the non-emissions motors. I just don't want to send it through an EGR or CAT. To each his own.
Of course we've all heard of the guys who use their old motor oil, tranmission fluid, and who knows what else.
Question for you though - what made you start using it? Info from old timers? The Lubricity Study? Something else?
Of course we've all heard of the guys who use their old motor oil, tranmission fluid, and who knows what else.
Question for you though - what made you start using it? Info from old timers? The Lubricity Study? Something else?
Ford recommends, and even sells, a cetane improver. I just use a different brand, and my diesel supplement manual says that is okay.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/pdfs/Dies..._Care_Tips.pdf
https://www.fleet.ford.com/pdfs/Dies..._Care_Tips.pdf
Yes Ford recommends and sells Motorcraft cetane booster which I buy in gallon cans. Prior to Ford marketing their brand name booster it was not recommended. It's all about $ Stanadyne bottles it for Ford.
I started using diesel kleen to replace the lubricity of the ulsd. Then one day I started reading more indepth on it and other additives. The more I read the less I wanted the diesel kleen that was in my truck in their. I used to double dose it. Given that they are suppost to add stuff to ulsd to meet government standarts on lubricity and that could be a crap shoot of them doing it or doing it properly (I at one time worked at a convient store and I can attest to a lot of half aszed action that take place) I looked at a few tests that I felt were reasonably non biased and done in some what of a scientific way and all of them had additives that were better than 2 stroke oil. Infact the 2 stroke oil was in the top 20-30% of the groups. It is also the most cost efective and read avalible of all of them.
I never heard of a person to complain that the 2 stroke oil did damage to his engine. There is a guy on the Dodge/Cummins forum who has been running it for over 300,000 miles in 2 trucks combined as of 5/19/09
The lubricity test that some have referred to has been around for a few years.
One key issue with this test is that they used non-additive (added) diesel fuel from a local refiner (if I am remembering correctly). Then they tested each additive for lubricity.
Remember... using an additve is more than just adding lubricity... it's about the following:
1) Lubricity
2) Cetane improves
3) Injector/pump cleaners
4) Anti-gel (when advertised as such)
The key is to have a good "blend" of each of the above.
1) Cetane = improved mileage and better atomization (and other stuff) of the fuel.
2) Cleaners = Keeps deposits off the tips of the injectors (even & consistent fuel spray).
3) Lubricity = Added lubricatnts/chemicals to the addtive to "lube key parts".
4) Anti-Gel = For use in winter and prevent wax formation.
Also, when looking for an additve there are two types:
1) Emulsifier = breaks down water/moisture so it can pass through and be burned (this is bad for diesels and good for gassers)... you want to seperate it and filter it out, not burn it!!!
2) De-emulsifier = Makes water/moisture collect into larger droplets and allows for the HFCM on diesels to seperate the water out and have only clean diesel fuel make it to the injectors (this is what Stanadyne and Powerservice use).
One key issue with this test is that they used non-additive (added) diesel fuel from a local refiner (if I am remembering correctly). Then they tested each additive for lubricity.
Remember... using an additve is more than just adding lubricity... it's about the following:
1) Lubricity
2) Cetane improves
3) Injector/pump cleaners
4) Anti-gel (when advertised as such)
The key is to have a good "blend" of each of the above.
1) Cetane = improved mileage and better atomization (and other stuff) of the fuel.
2) Cleaners = Keeps deposits off the tips of the injectors (even & consistent fuel spray).
3) Lubricity = Added lubricatnts/chemicals to the addtive to "lube key parts".
4) Anti-Gel = For use in winter and prevent wax formation.
Also, when looking for an additve there are two types:
1) Emulsifier = breaks down water/moisture so it can pass through and be burned (this is bad for diesels and good for gassers)... you want to seperate it and filter it out, not burn it!!!
2) De-emulsifier = Makes water/moisture collect into larger droplets and allows for the HFCM on diesels to seperate the water out and have only clean diesel fuel make it to the injectors (this is what Stanadyne and Powerservice use).
Which in no way guarantees that it is the same product. If it is or isn't, they are not going to tell us.
Just remember, that what the Ford Parts manager told me (Stanadyne/Motorcraft is not necessarily true. It could be hearsay, can someone check the MSDS sheets for Dieselkleen vs Motorcraft.
No dice. Per one of Power Service's MSDS sheets "Specific chemical information is being withheld as a Trade Secret." The named ingredients didn't match exactly anyhow, even though they didn't give mixture info.
No.... oil was not intended to be be burned in a cumbustion motor.
Some have tried 2-stroke oil... but I think that using bio-fuel or brand-name additives are the ONLY way to go!!!!
Quick question... did you stay up late last night thinking of this question.... heck lets all pee in our fuel tanks after drinking... the alcohol will prevent gelling and increase cetane.... oh... that's right.... only non-alcohol additves should be used!!!!

Some have tried 2-stroke oil... but I think that using bio-fuel or brand-name additives are the ONLY way to go!!!!
Quick question... did you stay up late last night thinking of this question.... heck lets all pee in our fuel tanks after drinking... the alcohol will prevent gelling and increase cetane.... oh... that's right.... only non-alcohol additves should be used!!!!









