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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Farmboypowerstroke
Yes even when engine is warm.

Example one day, Went to start truck, waiting for wait to start light to go off, turned key, engine cranked & cranked fast, but didn't start. Turn key off, turn key on again, waited for light to go off, truck started normal. Drove to city 70 miles. Shut truck off, went into store. 45mins later came out to truck, wait for light to go off, truck started normal. Went to the back of the store, shut truck off. Load up and strapped load down, got in truck waiting for light to go off, engine cranked&cranked fast, but didn't start. Turn key to off, turn on waited for light to go off, truck started normal
Ok. Sorry about the line of questions. Wanted to make sure it wasn't a voltage or GPR issue before we got any further.

Like Scott said, you can clean the copper contacts on the PCM where you installed your chip. You can use a small scotch brite pad and some finger nail polish remover to make sure your contacts are clean. From the factory, those copper connections come with invisible film over them. It should be scratched off before the chip is installed. You may or may not have done that, I'm not sure.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #17  
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You don't want to take it down to the copper. Just use the scotch brite so a little copper is showing around the edge of each contact.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 05:47 PM
  #18  
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Whoops, I meant to say the protective crap on top of the copper, sorry.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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From now on when you turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump to come on. Also watch the WTS light. If you don't hear the fuel pump and the WTS light does not operate normally when you have the no start issue, you may have a bad chip. If you don't hear the fuel pump come on, don't even try to start it. Just cycle the key until you hear it come on.

There's a bad batch of TS chips floating around out there, you may have gotten one of them.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 07:16 PM
  #20  
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Thanks everyone for all the help, love this site. I'm going to clean the PCM up good. I got this chip from Tony Wildman about a year ago, then when i put swamps injectors in i got their tunning
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 07:47 AM
  #21  
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Just an update, we still haven't got it figured out. Cleaned the PCM up real good. Most of the time the truck will start the first time just like it should. Then other times it will crank and crank and not fire. There isn't any smoke coming out of the stacks so i'm thinking the injectors are not firing. We put a different chip in, same problem. When i was in a parking lot, i was on setting 5 and turned it to 4, and the engine ran different, looked down and my wait to start light was on, water in fuel, and airbag light was on. What should be check now?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #22  
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Was the chip you tested with burnt for your PCM code?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 08:57 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Was the chip you tested with burnt for your PCM code?


Yes, i'm sure it was.


here is my problem:

99% of the time it will start fine, when it doesn't start, it will crank & crank but not fire. When its cranking there isn't any smoke coming from the stacks. So I'm thinking the injectors aren't firing. Because there is fuel pressure there.

The times it doesn't start, I will cycle the key once more, and it will start just fine, every time. Doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold.

We though it was a bad chip, so Swamps burnt me a different one, same problem.

When the truck was running, i was in setting 5, when i turned it down to 4, the engine different. I looked and my wait to start light, water in fuel, and air bag light was all on.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 09:54 AM
  #24  
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I'm wondering if there is an intermittant "break" in the ign circuit somewhere. If it just cranks there may not be power going to the PCM telling the IDM to fire. When you cycle the key again it is now making contact and everything functions ok. I didn't read the whole thread but have you tried to pull any codes?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:43 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by megawatt00
I'm wondering if there is an intermittant "break" in the ign circuit somewhere. If it just cranks there may not be power going to the PCM telling the IDM to fire. When you cycle the key again it is now making contact and everything functions ok. I didn't read the whole thread but have you tried to pull any codes?



not getting any codes
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #26  
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It may be an ignition switch issue then. Like Jim said, it may just be starting to fray a wire and that is why it's intermittent. You have basically eliminated the chip by having another one burnt. You have eliminated the contacts on the PCM by rechecking them. Try cracking into the steering column and checking the wires to the switch.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
It may be an ignition switch issue then. Like Jim said, it may just be starting to fray a wire and that is why it's intermittent. You have basically eliminated the chip by having another one burnt. You have eliminated the contacts on the PCM by rechecking them. Try cracking into the steering column and checking the wires to the switch.



this does make sense. i'm going now to check it out. i'll maybe get a new ignition switch and put it in just for the heck of it
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #28  
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I wouldn't spend money throwing parts at it just to do it, but I would check it out just the same.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #29  
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http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...g?t=1246899905


what the purpose of that?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 12:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Farmboypowerstroke
That's the dinger that drives you crazy when you put the key in the ignition and leave the door open. Slides into the lower portion of the key cylinder if you want to activate it again.
 
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