Carburetor adjustment
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The picture above is for a different carburetor. On a Carter 1 barrel, the pin isn't secured. You can pull it out with the air horn removed. With the air horn installed, the wall of the fuel bowl blocks it in place. Make sure the float pin is pushed in all the way and doesn't slip out while you drop down the air horn. Once installed, it keeps itself in place.
It sounds like all you did was pull the top of the air horn off and re-install it. Essentially you're still at square one. It could be an accelerator pump issue, float height issue, or hard-to-pinpoint vacuum leak; all things I've already mentioned. Nothing has changed. You might want to check the PCV line for vacuum leaks, and look for any uncapped vacuum sources as well. I still think you should check the timing and vacuum advance just to be absolutely sure. I get the feeling you're picking and choosing what to check and what not to check.
It sounds like all you did was pull the top of the air horn off and re-install it. Essentially you're still at square one. It could be an accelerator pump issue, float height issue, or hard-to-pinpoint vacuum leak; all things I've already mentioned. Nothing has changed. You might want to check the PCV line for vacuum leaks, and look for any uncapped vacuum sources as well. I still think you should check the timing and vacuum advance just to be absolutely sure. I get the feeling you're picking and choosing what to check and what not to check.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 14
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Well everything looked ok, like nothing was rusted up or anything, how can i check where the flot should be? there was a open vacuum port(?) open that I didn't see til I got the carb top off, so I plugged that up.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
FTE is driving me nuts. This is the third time I've typed this out.
Carburetors don't rust up, they gum up. It's not what you see when you open the top of the carburetor that matters, it's the varnish inside the internal passages that matter.
I'll try to get into the shop tomorrow and find a rebuild sheet for a 1 barrel and scan in the float diagrams.
Are you sure it was a vacuum port you actually plugged? It might have been the fuel bowl vent outlet, by the sound of things.
Carburetors don't rust up, they gum up. It's not what you see when you open the top of the carburetor that matters, it's the varnish inside the internal passages that matter.
I'll try to get into the shop tomorrow and find a rebuild sheet for a 1 barrel and scan in the float diagrams.
Are you sure it was a vacuum port you actually plugged? It might have been the fuel bowl vent outlet, by the sound of things.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
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You should really just follow fmc400's advice, word-for-word, starting as soon as possible. The more you screw around otherwise, the more time, effort and money you will waste. I had to go through a carb rebuild twice because I thought soaking all the carb parts with carb cleaner and blowing out the passages with compressed air would be good enough. It wasn't and I wasted several frustrating nights screwing with it. Lesson learned. Buy the correct rebuild kit once, buy the chem dip, follow instructions, drive away happy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 3
From: Halifx Pa
You should really just follow fmc400's advice, word-for-word, starting as soon as possible. The more you screw around otherwise, the more time, effort and money you will waste. I had to go through a carb rebuild twice because I thought soaking all the carb parts with carb cleaner and blowing out the passages with compressed air would be good enough. It wasn't and I wasted several frustrating nights screwing with it. Lesson learned. Buy the correct rebuild kit once, buy the chem dip, follow instructions, drive away happy.
COULDN'T HAVE SAID IT BETTER MYSELF! Play the game, learn the hard way, NO thanks!
PS: Been having some FTE troubles myself, thought it was on my end, but glad to hear its not just me.
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Can anyone tell me what carb this is? the tag is ripped off, there are numbers on the side, 2426, is that the part number?
Can anyone tell me what carb this is? the tag is ripped off, there are numbers on the side, 2426, is that the part number?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 10
The idle mixture screws on that year/carburator (due to environmental issues) work backwards to what a normal carburator does because they deal with the air not fuel. I'll bet that the carb idle ckts are too lean and that will translate to no power when taking off and a surging effect while flat level driving. See if your buddy screwed them out, try to run them in and (make sure choke is open and you aren't up on the 'high idle' of the choke mechanics) see if the motor starts to run rich, back off a half turn and give it a try. If it does go rich it'll need more than half turn to fine tune, but at least you know you are going the right way. It is a slow process with a holley, the idle adjustment takes a few moments to work their way thru the system, you'll tweak a bit and walk back but stand there a while smelling for richness. 'Course, you might have a piece of junk for a carburator too.
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
That carburetor is a Carter YFA. As I told you before, there's no carburetor tag, the number you need is stamped on the carburetor itself. That number may be it.
ojh - I think you're wrong about the idle mixture screws; I have the exact same carburetor in the shop and used to run it, and it uses the conventional screw direction.
ojh - I think you're wrong about the idle mixture screws; I have the exact same carburetor in the shop and used to run it, and it uses the conventional screw direction.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 197
Likes: 10
Runnin my mouth
Sorry about that fmc, i read only the first couple pages of this thread and didn'y see the pics of the carb. I thought you had a carb similar to mine which has some form of emissions stuff in it, a *******ized holley. Anyway those carters are hateful little crackers, but the rest of the guys are right in that it is just probably sludge from the new fuel mix that we are getting and it'll need to soak in that gallon of carb cleaner, then hosed with spray can carb cleaner - 2 cans usually - should be good to go.
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