Does it restart immediately or do you have to wait awhile to restart it?

 

It take a try or 2 or 3

 

Hey montana, are you thinking ignition module thats getting heat from the motor?(or just going bad). Just a passing thought. I know it is off the path that fmc400 is on. I don't mean to confuse things,.......

 

Ignition module is new but I guess that don't mean its working right.

 

If the motor will run at all, we can usually rule out the ignition system. When you did the spray test, did you lean out the motor so that it barely would run? From your response, it seemed like you were under the impression that spraying different parts of the engine would fix the problem - that's not the case - it's a diagnostic method to pinpoint a problem. It won't fix the problem. Did you spray seals slowly and carefully? The purpose isn't to clean up the motor, it's to try to get the engine to suck in the carbruetor cleaner through a compromised seal.

Check through those things - then the next thing to check would be the fuel level in the bowl. Unfortunately with a Carter 1 barrel, you can't run the engine with the air horn removed because the float drops from the top. In that case you'd have to remove the air horn and check the float height; I can probably dig up the measurements if you need to go to that step. Honestly though, depending on how gummed up the carburetor is, if you're opening it up you might as well rebuild the carburetor. The nice thing about carburetor rebuilds is that they often fix hard-to-pinpoint fuel delivery problems such as what you're seeing.

Another thing to check is timing - check your base timing with a timing light; check what vacuum source your vacuum advance is running to, and check the vacuum advance for proper operation by applying vacuum and checking that the vacuum advance rod pulls on the distributor breaker plate. Vacuum advances aren't known for causing stalling issues, but stranger things have happened.

 

I'm very interested in where this is going . I havent posted anything as I was a mechanic myself for years annd I still learn something new all the time . By the way, I too have a 1978 Ford F-150 ( NO SMOG ) and a severly rich running carburator . I think I will have to eventually have to rebuild it to solve the inherent over rich problem. Course too, seems that Ford always had a over rich problem on their carburators . This goes back to Flat head days and yep I own one dem too. Even my wrecker which had a Autolite two barrel had a Rich problem . Anyway, I'll be keeping a close eye on this . Ed Shaver

 

I know what you are talking about checking for leaks, but I didn't notice anything differnt so I guess there isn't a leak? Any tips on rebuilding the carb.? People that I know tell me to buy a new one and don't rebuild but I tell them give me the 200 or what ever bucks and I'll do it, it cost about 15 bucks for the rebuild kit so I'm thinking that is the road I'm taking.

 

I agree, I rebuilt my Cater 1bbl last August, ( with the help of a mechanic friend) and it runs great! I was looking to buy one off of the shelf, but I though why spend the money? I got a kit from Napa for like $21 or so, and it runs great.

Follow fmc400, and your carb will run in tip top shape. He knows what he is doing and can explain in clear detail what you need to do. Don't let others jump and confuse, or distract you. You will get it running, and learn too, which makes this forum so great. Not only you learn but others learn from watching it evolve, but down the road they search, and read, so it continues to help others.

If you can, could you take some pictures and post them in this thread, this usually helps too! GOOD LUCK, and you will be running smoth as silk in no time!

 

Here is my take on rebuilding the carburetor. Don't mess with remanufactured carburetors. It's a wild goose chase. You have no idea how it's put together, what kind of kit was used, and you end up having to take it apart anyway because you never really know where the float is set at. It's better to do it yourself, because then you know it was done right.

While it is cheaper to rebuild the carburetor, it's not as cheap as $15. This is very important. Don't listen to anyone that tells you to simply spray it down with a can of carburetor cleaner and put it back together, because those are the same people that come here saying their truck won't start after they rebuilt their carburetor. You need the following:

Rebuild Kit. Don't buy a "one-size-fits-all" from Advance Auto. Take the list number off your carburetor (for a Carter, it will be stamped on the throttle body itself) to a reputable, local parts shop that will look up the numbers in a giant book for you. I find Napa to have the best kits; a kit from Napa will probably run about $30. The rebuild kit will have a blow-up diagram to show what goes where, and the parts will be numbered in a recommended order for removal and installation. Additionally, the diagram will list the procedures and specifications for dialing in different parts of the carburetor as you go.

Chem Dip. You need a gallon can of liquid carburetor cleaner. It usually runs about $25. It looks like a paint can, and comes with a dipping basket. Soak the big parts individually. For example, set the throttle body in the basket, dip the basket in and leave it soaking for an hour. Pull it out afterwards, then clean it off (described below). Do the same thing for the air horn, then a final round for all the small parts. If you can't fit the throttle body in the can, pour the cleaner into a bucket and work from there. Only put the metal parts in the can because it will eat everything else. Don't put the float in it. Important: This is nasty stuff. Don't get it on you and don't breathe the fumes. It will eat rubber gloves right off of your hands.

Carburetor Cleaner Spray. You need a can or two of this stuff to spray off the residue from the Chem Dip because it will leave slimey goo on the parts. This stuff is cheap. After the parts are clean and dry, use compressed air to blow out the passages inside the carburetor. Wear goggles for this step.

Fuel Filter. Only a few bucks.

Base Gasket. This depends on the rebuild kit; some don't come with the gasket to mount the carburetor to the manifold (or EGR spacer plate, depending on the year). Some do come with a gasket, but it's paper thin and shouldn't be used. A good base gasket is thick and has grommets for the carburetor studs. If you have EGR, this is a good time to replace the spacer plate to manifold gasket as well. Wait and see if the carburetor rebuild kit has what you need.

Miscellaenous. If the carburetor has the original brass float, it's a good time to replace it with a foam style float, even if the original seems in good shape. Over time, the solder holding the two halves of the brass float can degrade, which lets the float fill with gas and sink. Foam floats are much more modern and robust.

Other than that, take your time, and don't throw any thing away until you're sure the rebuild kit has come with a replacement. With it being your first time, take pictures of every step. Don't remove something until you have a picture showing where it went. If you ever were into model cars or air planes, this will feel natural to you. Good luck!

 

I was thinking maybe coil or module are overheating but he said it restarts.

 

That reminds me - rebuilding the carburetor is just one of many things I mentioned in my earlier post. You should still check the timing, vacuum advance, etc as I mentioned. I'd hate for you to go through all that and still have the problem. Don't fall into the trap of "I don't have a timing light, so it's probably not the timing anyway."

 

I'm pretty sure the timming is right, I had it set before this problem happend. But the rebuild pointers where the best I have heard yet.

 

See, see, what I tell ya?.........


PS: Get that carb done we need to take a trip to Austin Texas! Your gonna get it one of these days Jeff!!

 

Haha!

 

So, I took the top of the carb off, to make sure the flot was ok, it seemed ok but the little pin that holds it on slips out easy because it wasnt on there good, should there be something on that pin? Anyway it looked clean, I put it all together back on and now it will idel and not stall out once it gets warm, but, when I give a little gas it was to stall out and if i let off the gas its fine again, whats that sound like?