Well, as I went to bleed my brakes today after successfully (which came as a complete surprise) switching in a new power booster/master cylinder, I remembered from last time that they're all rounded beyond belief. Are there any major chain stores (auto parts or not) that still sell them? I really don't feel like ordering off the net and waiting another whole week, I have to be at work on Friday

(Also, my brakes are all stock from the factory, just in case it helps to know)

(Also also, what would the exact size of the screws be? That way I can call around to local stores to check, too)

 

I went through the same thing. I had to replace my brake booster and master cylinder. When I went to bleed my brakes, the things wouldn't budge. I sprayed the penetrating oil on them and had to let it sit overnight. I still ended up breaking off my rear driver's side screw. The stores sell self bleeding screws now. Whenever you open them up and then pump the brakes, air and liquid only goes out and then doesn't come back in. The down side is that you have to get the old screwed off and put the new ones in first. Whenever you take the screws off, brake fluid will come out so you have to be quick about it or pinch off the line. hope this helps...

 

A rear wheel cylinder is like $10. A front caliper maybe $15. If they are so old that the bleed screws are rusted in place, then it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace the hydraulic part. It would sure be a lot easier.

 

Fortunately, rust isn't too much of an issue, the main problem is just that they're as round as pennies and (as you probably know) they're in spots too tight to really get a lot of room to work in. These self-bleeding screws sort of intrigue me, how much do they usually cost, and can you buy them at Autozone or Wal-Mart? They're they only two major stores around that would have any sort of parts (and I really am sure Wal-Mart won't have them). Hopefully once I figure out the measurements, I'll be able to call around to the local non-chain stores to see what they have, too.

 

Your signature says that truck is your daily driver. It's the same truck that you replaced the booster and master cylinder without bleeding the brakes? After I did that to mine the brakes were so mooshy it was really hard to stop. You're driving around like this? That doesn't sound very safe.

They sell the bleeder screws at auto zone and they should run about 20 bucks for a pair (2 screws). They are called solo bleed screws I think.

 

FoMoCo part number: 8M2208 .. Bleeder Screw / 3/8" -24 x 1 11/64" / Fits: 1948 and later cars/trucks.

Considering how many years and how many gazillion cars/trucks used these screws, they shouldn't be too hard to find in autoparts stores.

 

Just removing those bleeder screws that are rounded out can be tough! I have had luck applying heat from a MAPP propane torch to the caliper and then applying more penetrating oil, (careful if you use WD40. It will flash!) then more heat. Grab the screw with a vice grip and apply steady pressure rather than sharp blows. The fronts should come out with this method and there should be plenty of room to work. The rears are better to just replace, because as already noted, they are cheap or at least remove them from the truck and work on getting out the bleeders on the bench. Don't be to surprised if you have to replace the brake lines on the rear axle also. The junction block has 2 different sized threads for the left and right side. A adapter is the only way to deal with that. Your local Autozone should be able to help you. Either way, plenty of antisieze on the new screws and the proper sized flare wrench to just snug down the new screws after bleeding and next time will be a breeze!!<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Good Luck!

 

Yeah, it's the same truck, but I was using my dad's car for trips to the parts stores, since my brake pedal currently won't do anything until pushed all the way to the floor, not too good for driving

Also I ended up going to a really small local parts store that sold me all four screws for under $12 (for all of them, not for each ). They aren't the new easy-bleeding type you described, they're just simple replacements, but they're doing the job and far easier to work with than those old smooth ones. I've replaced the rear two so far, but the front two will have to wait for tomorrow since it decided to rain. Thanks everyone for all the help so far, I'm extremely glad this isn't turning out like my 7-page heater core snafu [sic], hah!

 

I tried posting this before but got a database error.

They are called speed bleeders and usually run about $20 EACH.

There is no way in hell I'd spend $80 on bleeders. I'd rather get a friend to help or buy a cheap vacuum pump setup from Harbor Freight for about $15 (which works very well by the way) and you can do them all by yourself.

 

if you heat the bleaders in the rear dont get then too hot, the heat will transfer to the wheel cyl and melt the seals.
As for bleading i almost always gravity blead without any issues