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New model aluminum radiator?

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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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New model aluminum radiator?

Are there any aluminum radiators that I might be able to find at a local salvage yard that will bolt up? I have a '77 F150 with a little hot street/strip 472 and a huge 4 core radiator from a '79 F350 (I think). This truck gets hot here in Dallas (especially in rush hour traffic). If I'm not running BMW's and Mercedes off the road at 75 mph (), she warms up alot. To the point that it's causing vapor lock in the ole 4150! I already have a 15'' electric fan that runs continuous in high whenever the ignition is on. If I have to, I will put up the money for a new radiator, but if I can find one that can be retrofitted, then that is the route I want to go. Any information is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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I'm sure something could be made to fit...........what kinda HOT temps are we talking?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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I have yet to install my new tach. It is a five inch with water temp, oil pressure, and oil temp, but I haven't had time to connect everything. Off of the OEM temp gauge... right in between the "r" and "m" of "NORMAL" is when she will start to vapor lock on me. Running on the highway, she will stay around the "o". LOL Hope that answers your question. I am getting that tach connected this weekend and I can give you some concrete numbers then.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:19 PM
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Aluminum is the way to go, but we should first talk about the efficiencies of your fan.
Is the fan capable of moving enough air through every portion of the radiator? By bet is that the fan is resting or mounted up against the radiator and the actual surface area that is being cooled is less than half of the total surface area.
Is this fan using a shroud? I have only seen a few that use shrouds, and by installing a 15" fan right up against the radiator might be your first thing to reconsider.
Next is the amount of water flow. IS it adequate? This could be too little, and it could be too much. Believe this or not, but you can flow too much water through a radiator and it will not spend enough time in the radiator to exchange heat.
Tuning a cooling system is critical. I run a big inch engine (got 85 cubes on your 472) with quite a bit of compression and I mamage to keep it very cool.
My 521's run cool as canbe too. Yes I run aluminum radiators, (one is a chevy crossflow) but the openings on our trucks are huge, so just about any crossflow can work.
INlet and outlets are the limiting factors,,,,,,,,,,,,, sort of.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:33 PM
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Moroso High Flow aluminum water pump, and I do have an original shroud on it, but you guessed it... easily less than half of the total surface area of the radiator. Do you think I am out flowing it? I think that radiator holds about 4.5 gallons! I am building a 545 right now... that one will not be a street motor. Where did you get your rotating assembly? CNC Machine has some great deals right now if you are interested. A little off topic, but a good topic anyhow. Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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inlets and outlets shouldn't really limit your radiator choice. A few bucks or some spare hose/pipe and you can make just about any shape hose you want.

by "very cool" I hope you don't mean 160?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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inlets and outlets shouldn't really limit your radiator choice. A few bucks or some spare hose/pipe and you can make just about any shape hose you want.

by "very cool" I hope you don't mean 160?
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 460F150
I have yet to install my new tach. It is a five inch with water temp, oil pressure, and oil temp, but I haven't had time to connect everything. Off of the OEM temp gauge... right in between the "r" and "m" of "NORMAL" is when she will start to vapor lock on me. Running on the highway, she will stay around the "o". LOL Hope that answers your question. I am getting that tach connected this weekend and I can give you some concrete numbers then.

Oh boy,,,,,,,,,,,,
You are running a 472 and you have not connected any "real" gauges?
How accurate do you exect that old factory gauge to be?
What kind of fuel line are you using? Not stock 3/8" is it" MIght be why you have this problem. Get a larger line in there (your engine will thank you) and the larger capacity line will be more resistant to the heat soak problem, and vapor lock will go away.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by shanes66charger
inlets and outlets shouldn't really limit your radiator choice. A few bucks or some spare hose/pipe and you can make just about any shape hose you want.

by "very cool" I hope you don't mean 160?

Hose and some pipe can go a long way, especially a remote mount radiator, like us mud guys have to run.

Cool to me is right at 180 to 190. I dont hit the nitrous two times in a row. 7,000 and 7,200 rpm runs at 200 degrees is not uncommon, and a big run can last for several minutes. Mud smoking off of the hot exhaust, and the engine stays where it should.
I spend as much time getting it warmed up before I abuse it. Tolerances are much better when the engine has some heat in it.
Too cool can be as rough on an engine as too hot.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Running half inch fuel line... little secret of mine. Turns out ALOT of the guys at the local track don't know what an alky motor smells like and they think I am running 91 octane. I have to run the half inch, just to keep her fed on the track. A little fuel line swap and a tweak of the fuel regulator. Give them some line like "Oh, my carb seems to be acting up...lucky I have another one in the cab...and presto, alcohol, and no ones different. It runs cool with the methanol! Every now and then, I get a guy that knows what one smells like and he gives me a little wink! LOL It is a new build... give me until this weekend to get some gauges in it. I was just anxious to start getting some ETs.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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Back on topic.

Any late model Ford trucks that might have one that will drop in? Think! I need this thing run cooler! LOL Thanks for all the input guys. After the gauges, I am going to re-evaluate the cooling system... one piece at a time. Thanks again for the information thus far, keep it coming.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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oh ok good. and yes, too cool is NOT GOOD!
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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The 4 row Super Cooler is more than enough to cool it. 15 in. fan, thats awful small.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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You run gas and alcohol on the same carb, or do you have a trick for swapping that?
How about the jet change from gas to alcohol?
My alky (850 CFM) carbs start at over #100 jet size, and the ones one the boat are around #161, and depending on where we run it, can see #177's.
Most gas 750's may have a 70 square depending on the throttle linkage type.
If you can run on 91 octane, there is no way your being sneaky and running 100% alcohol. It just wont work. The small idle circuit alone in a 4150 will not supply enough fuel to permit it to even idle. It cant meet the fuel demand.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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I thought it would be fine. Think just a bigger cfm fan would do the trick? I have other things I can spend my money on than a radiator...like Trick Flow heads for the new baby.
 
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