Boost too high...Why?
Inferred EBP Overview (MY 03.25 to 04.25 "06E17action" - PCM eliminates the EBP sensor input): Vehicles built prior to Sept 29,2003 (does not include vans). The PCM uses the EBP for trucks built after Sept 29, 2003.
I agree w/ Sarge that the issue is the overboost. I think the overboost is either the turbo (vanes sticking or failed VGT actuator), the EBP (IF the truck was built after the above date) or the programmer's affect on the PCM.
You could pull your turbo and clean it. If it has never been done, it would probably be a good thing even if that turned out to not be the root issue. After that, unless you have access to daignostic equipment and a workshop manual, you will either need to take it in or just start replacing parts. Maybe someone else has some better help, but that is all I can think of at the moment.
Facing the side of the motor on the drivers side look at the font of the valve cover. On the drivers side you will see a tube coming up from the side of the valve cover. On the top of the tube you will see an electrical connector. That is the EBP sensor. Below the coolant reservoir and mounted to the valve cover.
There should be between 1.15 to 1.35 volts at idle. This is with the exhaust brake so the volts may need to be lower. Note - when the sensor gives erratic volt readings to the PCM the turbo will act erratic and set codes.
Another good way to test it is to obtain a pressure reading at KOEO (Key On Engine Off). The EBP reading should be close to the MAP and Baro values (.5 psi); if you're seeing several psi difference, its most likely bad. There will be some slight variation due to mfg tolerances. The challenge may be having something that can read and compare them. The Autoenginuity software on a laptop works for this. Without that, do the voltage check with KOEO.
Note - some dealers don't effectively test this aspect and sometimes they blame the turbo when all that may have been needed was the sensor.
How long has the truck sat, if at all.
How often do you drive it
Do you tow alot or just to and from the store...short trips.
My truck, before the turbo was replaced, if it sat for 2 days it would stick and I would see between 35-40 psi of boost. I have never blown my IC or hoses but I babied that thing til I could get it fixed. Hopefully you still have a warranty or an honest dealer that will help you out with the repairs since this is the 2nd I/C that blew.
Sarge
How long has the truck sat, if at all.
How often do you drive it
Do you tow alot or just to and from the store...short trips.
My truck, before the turbo was replaced, if it sat for 2 days it would stick and I would see between 35-40 psi of boost. I have never blown my IC or hoses but I babied that thing til I could get it fixed. Hopefully you still have a warranty or an honest dealer that will help you out with the repairs since this is the 2nd I/C that blew.
Sarge
The truck doesn't sit for more than 2 days. I only tow with it about 10-15 times per year. The rest of the time I'm driving it to and from work (about 20 minutes each way)
I replaced the intercooler today (Ford Warrantied it). And I set the tuning level to stock. On my way home from work, I put my foot into it really good while going up a hill to see what kind of boost I'd get.....Got up 35psi !!! No tuning, no load.
Last edited by Fluid Power; Jun 10, 2009 at 02:36 AM. Reason: added some info
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Prior to replacement I would see between 38-42 psi on occasion...not good.
I would have the truck scanned for codes and see if you have the under/over boost codes around. P0299 I beleive is the code.
Sarge
I spent all day today with my Dad (Fathers Day) and we rebuit the VGT (variable geometry part). The unison ring WAS seized. I haven't had a good chance for testing yet because my tube for the boost gauge got broke while pulling the turbo out, so I have to fix that first.
I will definitely post back with testing results.
Thanks to all who provided their wisdom, you where bang-on.











