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No. I think in order for the EGR cooler to funtion properly it would have to be a 3" orifice for coolant to flow through and a few 1/4" SS tubes for exhaust to flow through for it not to flash the coolant the way it does. Coolant is not meant to be directly exposed to prolonged 1000*+ exhaust gases and expect to hold its boiling point.
I just replaced my OEM head bolts with ARP studs and while I had the motor apart, I sent my EGR cooler to Ken at Neal Tech. for the upgrade. I had the early build round cooler. He sent me an upgraded cooler and a picture of mine after he cut it open. My old cooler had plenty of debris in it. I installed Ken's cooler and it was a perfect fit. I would recommend it and I believe it is cheaper then buying another OEM cooler from Ford.
No. I think in order for the EGR cooler to funtion properly it would have to be a 3" orifice for coolant to flow through and a few 1/4" SS tubes for exhaust to flow through for it not to flash the coolant the way it does. Coolant is not meant to be directly exposed to prolonged 1000*+ exhaust gases and expect to hold its boiling point.
Sounds good, but just isn't true. This EGR Cooler at www.ntshoptools.com works and works great. I have one installed on my truck and it fit perfectly! No check engine light, no EGR problems and peace-of-mind on my EGR cooler.
The thing about this cooler is that it doesn't work the way we are used to the Ford coolers working. This one allows for MUCH MUCH more coolant to flow around the tubes, so the coolant never approaches the flash boiling temperature. Additionally, the tubes stay cooler, which does not allow for the Leidenfrost Effect to occur within the cooler... (look it up on wikipedia, cool stuff!).
So, does it work?
I took my truck through inspection before installing this upgrade and after. My emissions went from a 5.4% opacity reading down to a 3.3% opacity reading. I would say its at least doing its job, if not more!
Plus, so many people love to say "EGR delete, EGR delete"... wonderful.... that is, right up until the point that Nancy Pelosi and B Obama start enforcing all the federal clean air laws on the books, even in rural states and counties.
Is the stock EGR cooler covered under the factory 100K warranty?
Yes it is. Until Ford builds a quality cooler similar to Neal Techs cooler, Ford is replacing a problem with another problem. Granted the replacement is on Ford's dime, but the OEM cooler will probably fail again and who knows where it will fail. Suggest you find a dealer that will install the NT cooler. You buy the cooler and Ford does the install on their dime. Just my $.02 worth.
Actually it is Tango Uniform or the more PC version November Seirra (nipples skyward). Need I digress!
Anyway to answer you question, you will need to invest in a Combustion Gas Analyzer kit to know for sure.
Here is my logic tree.
First, pull your EGR valve to make sure there is no antifreeze in the intake. If there is, that indicates that you have a ruptured tube in the EGR cooler.
Second, If you do the exhaust gas sniff test in the degas tank and you have no indication of exhaust gases, then it is probably a clogged EGR cooler or oil cooler since the coolant flows through the oil cooler before it goes to EGR cooler. This restricts flow in the EGR cooler causing the reduced coolant flow to flash to steam, therefore, causing puking. For future reference you can unplug your EGR valve and that will virtually eliminate all exhaust flow through the EGR cooler. Let's take the oil cooler first. I believe you can pull the oil cooler without pulling the turbo or intake. Not sure. If you can get the oil cooler out, connect a hose to the cooler coolant outlet and backflush the cooler. Take a jar and collect what comes out. If you get a lot of debis or the flow is restricted, then you have two choices: get a new cooler or buy the seals to rebuild the cooler. If the flow is clean and not restricted, then move on to the EGR cooler.
Finally, the EGR cooler. There are two types. The early build round type and the late build square type. You will have to remove the turbo and intake to get to the EGR cooler. You may be able to back flush the EGR cooler (attach hose to the intake manifold side of the cooler) and get the debris out. Based on the picture NT sent me when my old cooler was opened up the debris is packed tight in the end that goes into the intake. You may be able to shine a light in the hole and see if debris is present. I did not try this since I wanted to replace mine with the NT upgraded cooler.