The choke doesnt seem to do much, I've never seen it open all the way. It opens a little when I open the throttle all the way, but thats it. I've tried to run it once its warm with the choke pinned opened, but it doesnt change anything.

 

Start from scratch then. Set the idle mixture; I recommend using a vacuum gauge. Check the idle speed, and spray for vacuum leaks. The choke should be closed when the motor is cold, and open as the motor warms up. Refer to these articles for the choke:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6422219

 

Without a vacuum gauge you might as well be using a ouija board, you really nead a vacuum gauge to dial your carb in.
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1U2Z12A199AA .. Ignition Module (Motorcraft DY893) / 1U2Z12A199AA replaced D9VZ-12A199-A.

MSRP: $113.62 // y2kfordparts.com price: $58.80.

FTE sponsor: y2kfordparts.com = MILLENNIUM FORD in Seattle WA.

1U2Z12A199A is the blue module, so called because it has a blue plastic square where the wires feed out of it.

It was used beginning in 1976 (thru the 1990's) on many cars and trucks (except some 1976/79 CA vehicles that used another).

There is no substitute for quality parts. You get exactly what you pay for.

Buy the best and cry only once.

The problem with ignition modules is...they usually only fail when they overheat. Which means when taken to an autoparts store to be tested, they may check out OK.

The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost immediately.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour...or so.

3) Sooner or later, usually sooner...the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.

1974 thru 1987: The module is mounted on the left fender inner apron just in front of the firewall.

Engine heat, especially radiating from the left exhaust manifold on V8's, is the MORTAL ENEMY of these modules.

When you replace it, use some washers to further space it away from the fender apron. The more airflow around the little darlin' ...the better.

 

If the module fails again I will replace it with a quality one. But for now the replacement is working.

Now I have to fix the stalling problem. If I was to buy a new 4 barrel carb and an intake manifold, would I have to adjust the new carb or would it come pre-set? I was thinking about buying a 4 barrell anyway this might just get me to do it sooner.

And does everybody agree that its the carb? I dont want to go out and spend the money on a new one and find out it was something else.

Hey thanks for all the help so far, this forum is pretty awesome.

 

No carb outta the box is gonna be "pre-set" you'll need to adjust it to suit your specific needs, it may be close but you'll want to dial in for best performance, you can do this be "ear" but i'd highly recommend a tach and a vacuum gauge to do so.