Great Muddedprairie, I know exactly where Flemington is, I live in Mt Laurel, which shop is it, is it near those dealerships on rt 31

 

nagles,

Yes it is on the south bound side... Great dealer ship and good ppl to work with.

Mark

 

I dont think using antisieze would harm angthing. I use it whenever a steel bolt is screwed into Alum. Its also a good idea to torque the plugs. JMO

 

its just not needed with these plugs and can run the risk of fouling out the plugs if it gets down into the wrong places....

If you do want to use it...just be extremly careful when inserting the plugs to keep it off the ends...

 

thanks a whole lot Mark, so its Smith Motors or is it a Ford dealership, I'll stop in there tomorrow and see if they'll do my plugs

 

Read the latest TSB, you may find it interesting.

 

Would you have a link to it?

 

Great, just what i needed to make my day. i go out this evening to quick swap in some new plugs. I used the motorcraft carburetor tune-up cleaner like the tsb said but i still broke one plug so far. I'm about halfway thru changing plugs and who knows how many more will break before i'm all done. So what i want to know is this: DOES THE LISLE EXTRACTION TOOL REALLY WORK?????? the one thats broke just left the ground shield behind. any help will be appreciated.

 

The Lisle tool works very well. Did your porcelain come out of the sheild? If it came out all you need to use is the puller tool. If the porcelain is broken off even with the heatshield you will have to use the pusher tool then the puller. I had to push the porcelain a couple of times to get it low enough to use the puller. You will need to blow out the loose porcelain between each push and before pulling the heatshield.

 

How long did you let them soak?

 

I do not have a pointer to the latest TSB. It is one of those things that you have to pay $ to get the entire thing. On another Ford Forum referencing Mustangs, Trucks, And Cars there is a thread where someone quotes from the TSB (http://www.etoolcart.com/06152.pdf) stating where to place the high temp nickel based anti-seize at. (Free stuff downloaded off the net is worth every penny you paid not saved. Including my posts.) It was news to me and I am not sure I would go with it before actually buying the latest TSB and then I would still question it.
Regarding the broken plug, only the sleeve left behind the tap will work like a champ. Just follow the directions that came with the tool and do not forget to use the cap that came with the tool to catch the shavings. I also used axial grease on the tap to catch the shavings and backed out often.
If it left the porcelain broke off you will need to vacuum out all the loose debris, get a piece of wire the same size as the electrode, (stainless works best, stronger), put a nick on two on the end (wire cutters work best) stuff it in the hole and pull the porcelain out. Now it makes sense that if the porcelain broke then it is stuck pretty good also. That being the case, plug the hole (Same wire with some perma gasket sealer on it), and let soak with a penetrating oil (rated on the can to dissolve and break down carbon) overnight. Carburetor cleaner evaporates to fast to soak overnight (fact) and leaves no residues behind (not wise for this task). Next day vacuum out the excess fluid, remove the plug and pull the porcelain. If that fails you will need to use a drift pin the same size as the porcelain. Use the tool for alignment and gently push the porcelain down far enough for your tap to work. If you have a bottom-threading tap then you do not need to push the porcelain down as far. You will need about 4 to 6 good threads for the puller to work correctly. TAKE MEASUREMENTS (did I say that loud enough?)! It will pull out just like the tool instructions say it will. TAKE YOUR TIME! Yes, I am yelling! It is important! You are just this side from needing to pull your heads! You do not want to go there! When you are done, slip the vacuum tube down into the cylinder and suck out the debris and penetrating oil. Be careful the fumes will be going into your vacuum motor and can cause a problem. If you have a bore scope, you will feel much better about your work. If not, just do the best you can, and then DO IT AGAIN! Put your new plug in and proceed to the next broken plug. Repeat the process.
When you pulled the old plugs, where did it look like the problem with sticking was? Where the threads all corroded and gummed up or were they nice and shiny? Was the sleeve rusty looking or blackened with carbon deposits? Use your common sense with the anti-seize. Good luck, TAKE YOUR TIME, skill has nothing to do with this task.
One more thing if the tool jams in the stainless tube, making the well through the head all is not lost. Just pull every thing out. Press the tube and tool apart and press the tube back in place. There were gaskets (thin O rings) there make sure they are correctly in place. I used a socket of the correct size to press the tube back in.

 

nagles,

Smith motors is a ford and chrysler state of the art dealer ship. jack smith has had a ford dealer since 1929.. Now it's pasted on to his son... Another great dealer. 908 689 3737

Mark

 

Thanks Mark, I haven't had the chance to stop in yet, I've had my vp's in from corp this week, looks like thursday afternoon I'll be going there, I was watching Motorweek sunday and Goss' Garage was talking about Ford and their "real problem with the 5.4 v8" he had a tool from snapon is that the lisle tool

 

If your heading up there thur what time? I will be in flem for a few hrs... Maybe i'll stop over and meet you?

Mark

 

Awesome, if all goes good around 1-2pm, I could be ther later, but I don't think earlier
-Chris