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I know the question has been asked before and there are many different opinions about it, but i'm looking into converting my 97 F-250 from automatic to standard. I've allready looked at the hard parts(pedal assembly, actual tranny, master and slave cylinders and t-case compents...etc) but i wanted to know about the electronics. How would you covert the neutral safety switch and that stuff? Not to mention would i need to change out my computer? again i'm just looking into the idea cause i've got some long term plans for the truck and really just dont want to trade it for a 5-speed truck(grown attached to it).
PCM needs to be replaced or reprogrammed. Actually, since you are going from auto to standard, you could get away with it for awhile. The fueling is different.
I've toyed with this idea also, but I think I'll just buy a second truck.
I believe the fueling is slightly different so I wouyld change the PCM. I would think that when you change the PCM that should fix the neutral safety switch. You will then have a clutch switch that keeps you from starting unless the clutch is depressed.
im going the opposite way converting the manual to auto.
i may have a donor truck all lined up but still up in the air. im gonna use the pcs controller so i can control it the way i want it. but im on the fence on using the
E40D/BW4404 or the 4R100/NP271 out of the SD the 4R100 has the updated hard parts which would be real nice but we will see what i find.
ill keep ya posted when i start working on the swap the donor truck is still kinda in the air. all i need is the engine plate, shifter, trans cross member, short bed drive shafts. gonna use the pcs controller so i dont need computer or wire harness. i would like to find a 4r100 since it has the upgraded hard parts but if i find a e40d for the right price i might just put a PI converter and jon faubion valve body in it for now.
If you look under the dash you'll find a jumper by the clutch for the cruse control cancel and safety start switch for the clutch. In the auto it has two jumpers on it to bypass both switches. Unplug it and the clutch switch harness plugs in place.
Note that the two switches are separate; the cruse cancel switch kicks in before the clutch can slip so the engine doesn't race and the safety start switch doesn't close until the clutch is way down so that the clutch must be fully disengaged to start.
The start switch wiring is on your donor truck. You want the ~18" long harness that is attached to the manual transmission. It will connect up to make your reverse light work, and it also has a jumper that bypasses where the automatic start switch was.
joe_13894, so your saying that there is a harness under the dash for each truck, my next question is what about the wiring harness that goes out side of the cab to the auto trans does anyone know if that just unplugs and can plug into jakes truck? I think the hardest parts of this swap would be the wiring and the shift cables for the auto. any knowledge and advice is welcomed.