Bronco II Q's...
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Bronco II Q's...
I just looked at a used as in HEAVILY USED Bronco II to be my daughters first bomber. It has the 2.9 and automatic trans. First, what trans was most often used in these? It is a 2 WD but for some reason sports a transfer case with the forward output capped off. What is up with that... The PO admittedly hammered on it as a mudder and had 32's on the back and cut the fenders out to clear them. It is cut all the way so water will get in the body. He said it needs the "pump seal" replaced in the front of the transmission which he has purchased. So I am guessing the pump seal may be just possible issue. For $450 asking I would expect to get it to 400 or less. I am not real sure I want to aquire this particular headache specimen.
Brent
Brent
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Looking at the "wonderful" A4LD for the transmission I would expect. It's a light duty transmission. Yeah the great dummy transfer case. It's empty...as in totally empty--no guts..(not one of Fords better ideas)
Heavy used? While you can beat on these little buggers a bit? The 2.9 does NOT like to be overheated at all. It has a history of cracking the cylinder heads. If they have been upgraded to the newer design/aftermarket type? The 2.9, while not quite a power house itself, it's a pretty stout little engine.
Pump seal, looking at R&R of the transmission....removal of the old pump seal, and the new seal can be a pain to replace--and it needs to be 'staked' at least twice on the outer edge. (they have a couple of tech tools that make this job so much easier). From the sounds of it? If he's picked up a used transmission--the one in the truck is most likely toast..And it might need a new torque converter, or have the torque converter that came with the used transmission check to ensure it does not have a wear groove where the seal rides. (they do make a speedy sleeve to correct the groove problems)
Not sure if I'd go even to $350 given it's current condition. Looking at not only drive train work, but also body work to seal up the rear area.
S-
Heavy used? While you can beat on these little buggers a bit? The 2.9 does NOT like to be overheated at all. It has a history of cracking the cylinder heads. If they have been upgraded to the newer design/aftermarket type? The 2.9, while not quite a power house itself, it's a pretty stout little engine.
Pump seal, looking at R&R of the transmission....removal of the old pump seal, and the new seal can be a pain to replace--and it needs to be 'staked' at least twice on the outer edge. (they have a couple of tech tools that make this job so much easier). From the sounds of it? If he's picked up a used transmission--the one in the truck is most likely toast..And it might need a new torque converter, or have the torque converter that came with the used transmission check to ensure it does not have a wear groove where the seal rides. (they do make a speedy sleeve to correct the groove problems)
Not sure if I'd go even to $350 given it's current condition. Looking at not only drive train work, but also body work to seal up the rear area.
S-
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He hasn't bought another tranny, just a new seal...
Yeah if the motor isn't a power house known for reliability I may need to walk from it. It has a "lifter tick" the guy says an oil change will fix... I doubt that will be the fix unless the oil has 30K on it at which point other things are likely shot to heck anyway...
Brent
Yeah if the motor isn't a power house known for reliability I may need to walk from it. It has a "lifter tick" the guy says an oil change will fix... I doubt that will be the fix unless the oil has 30K on it at which point other things are likely shot to heck anyway...
Brent
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Ours has that lifter tick..it comes and it goes at odd times. LOL. Kinda like its reminding me it's still alive.
Looking at some man-hours to change out that front seal...and the torque converter should be checked for that groove.
Not sold on the oil change to fix the tick...Granted the last time I had our BII at the dealership to have the headlights aimed and the rear diff plug loosened one of the lead techs stated "That has gotta be the quietest 2.9 V6 I've EVER heard". (he's owned 3 rangers with that engine.)
I'd present him with the facts. Labor to R&R the transmission will run about 8 hrs (4 out and 4 in...Hey...it's only a GUESS!) Plus all that body work to fix his cut and pasted rear wheel areas. I'd go as high as maybe...maybe $325......Then again I'm a cheap pain in the rear end LOL.
S-
Looking at some man-hours to change out that front seal...and the torque converter should be checked for that groove.
Not sold on the oil change to fix the tick...Granted the last time I had our BII at the dealership to have the headlights aimed and the rear diff plug loosened one of the lead techs stated "That has gotta be the quietest 2.9 V6 I've EVER heard". (he's owned 3 rangers with that engine.)
I'd present him with the facts. Labor to R&R the transmission will run about 8 hrs (4 out and 4 in...Hey...it's only a GUESS!) Plus all that body work to fix his cut and pasted rear wheel areas. I'd go as high as maybe...maybe $325......Then again I'm a cheap pain in the rear end LOL.
S-
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From: Atlanta GA
Well, just the seal will not fix the leak. It is what caused it to leak in the 1st place that is the problem.
> It has a "lifter tick" the guy says an oil change will fix
He wishes
Basically a design flaw that shows up once the motor is over reved (close to 6k) or well worn, usually after 130-150k miles.
If he had just hammered the wheel wells like most people it would have been a repairable vehicle, cutting the wells on either a B2 or FSB is a no-no. I wouldn't bother trying to repair this vehicle unless $300 is all you can afford. You can buy nice looking 4x4 B2s on CL Atlanta for $800-$1000.
I bet the whole panel under the cargo area rear is rusted away, the seam under the rear seats is rusted away, and the seams under the pass. and driver's side is ripped too. This happens "real sooner" when you start the sawzall projects on a B2.
> It has a "lifter tick" the guy says an oil change will fix
He wishes
Basically a design flaw that shows up once the motor is over reved (close to 6k) or well worn, usually after 130-150k miles.If he had just hammered the wheel wells like most people it would have been a repairable vehicle, cutting the wells on either a B2 or FSB is a no-no. I wouldn't bother trying to repair this vehicle unless $300 is all you can afford. You can buy nice looking 4x4 B2s on CL Atlanta for $800-$1000.
I bet the whole panel under the cargo area rear is rusted away, the seam under the rear seats is rusted away, and the seams under the pass. and driver's side is ripped too. This happens "real sooner" when you start the sawzall projects on a B2.
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