The brackets look great. Nice work, btw. I liked it so much that I was actually going to do the same thing - but forgot that I'd already used up the rest of my aluminum stock for another pet project. Putting it behind the peddles was actually a 1 am work around to get done - but I ended up being really happy with how it turned out. I'll go out and get the pics i promised in just a minute. (after finding a post that'll teach me how to include pics from my album in an actual post.... lol)

If you use this location, make sure that the box sits flush against the floor board. If the drywall screws into the insulation aren't supporting any weight, they do a wonderful job of holding the box in place - and make it easy to service. (or remove temporarily without needing tools... if you don't trust your dealership) This is also why I kept so much extra wire bundled with the velcro ties, not to mention how convenient it will be to add new gauges later.

Edit: :-)











These are for 1957F100 who needed to see how the plugs were wired. For reference, on the gray plug the blue wire is in the #12 position and the orange wire is #7. (They look similar in these pics, but notice which number the orange goes into. I believe that the wire next to the pink wire in this photo is actually red.)




For the Black plug - the yellow wire is in the #12 position.



All buttoned up after taking some quick pics for you guys. The wires are held to the parking brake cable with one velcro tie around the wires themselves, and two velcro ties holding the plastic conduit in place to keep everything tidy and protect the wires.

As a site note, I did check for clearance before installing. The brake peddle can not reach the box (i think it had an extra inch or two of clearance).

Reps to PaysonPSD for all the install tips.

 

Nice write up! Just getting my setup from clay in the mail this week.
What are some other alternatives for splicing the ignition wire into besides the red/yellow tracer and running lights?
I am going to run a 4 guage a pillar and clays dash with 2 gauges. How did you go about running the 3 wires from under dash gauges up to the pillar? I am assuming you went from firewall -to-under dash gauges-to- pillar? Doesnt seem to be enough supplied wire. Maybe csipsd can chime in, i know he ran into this problem!
How is everyone running thier fuses?
Thanks,
Josh

 

I've bee eyeballing this setup for my Excursion. Really want to pull the trigger on these gauges, just need to save up some more $.

 

Bump. Plan on installing this weekend!

 

I have an automatic - so I used the plugged hole for the clutch pedal to run wires through.

I drilled through the plastic cover and cut a notch from the hole to one side. (Easier to get wires in that way than fishing them all the way through.) I then lined the inside of the new hole with a rubber grommet from the local auto parts store to keep the wires from chafing. The grommet has one cut at 45*, again to make it easy to get wires into the middle. When you install the grommet - make sure that the cut in the grommet does not line up with the notch in the plastic plug. (Turn it 90 or 180* in the hole for best results.)

All of the wires are also encased in plastic loom. Where the loom goes through the grommet & plug, the loom is wrapped in just enough electrical tape to give a snug (moisture resistant) fit in the rubber grommet. Haven't had a single problem with it since the original installation.

It'll soon be time to add a fuel pressure sensor - so I'll repost to let you know how it's holding up... or get pictures again.

Good luck on your install. Let us know how it works out.

 

Just installed mine today. Hpop , fuel, boost and pryo.
Heres a few things that were not covered.
If you plan on running more that just the pillar gauges, you might have to extend you 3 wires. I left room for the f650 dash and 2 of the 4 pods were part of the extended wiring. When extending wire. Make sure to use 20 ga. I used 18ga and had a heck of a time getting the wire into the gauge connectors.
I am not sure the year truck in riffraffs autometer writeup, but my 2000 has a different dimmer/light switch. You will have to pull part of the dash out, enough to get your fingers in to slide the clip over.
If you wire one gauge wrong, none will work.
I mounted mine onto the factory battery box. Same area as paysons
dislikes:
directions suck, had to run in and come on here a few times.
Gauge connections are a pain to get the wires in, but its a 1 time deal as they are universal.
Hpop and fuel pressure harness could be longer.

 

a standard "punch down" tool used in the telephone industry makes those gauge connections simple.

 

Thanks for the feedback/info Josh.


Mark,

Do you have a pic of the tool?

Rich

 

I will post it in a couple of hours. The tool is in the shop. I will look for a link to one.

 

If you google, (Paladin 3576 SurePunch Punchdown) there is some examples.

 

Rich have you installed your gauges yet? If not I can loan you my tool, looks like they are over $50.00 new.

 

Each gauge comes with a little tool, but i still ended up using a screwdriver to fully seat the wires

 

Payson or anyone else running a performax hpop gauge. Does your gauge jump around within 100 lbs? Every other gauge reads consistant and has a smooth transition except for the hpop. My icp has less than 10k..

(posted so the public knows for troubleshooting)

 

my hpop gauge is very active but no jumping around.

 

That's awesome Mark and thank you very much for the offer! I'll have to give you a shout when I get around to the gauges. Right now I've been throwing my wallet at the suspension & drivetrain .

Haven't gotten to do any power mods yet except for the exhaust and 6637 mod........I'm itchin to throw a chip in her though...