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Jun 3, 2009 | 11:26 PM

#16

Ejay

New User

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 6

Likes: 0

From: Oregon

Well this is what I have done...

Check Distributor Connector - Orange/Purple wire (613 ohms)
Check Module in run position - Red/Blue wire (12.36 V)
Check coil wire in run position - (6.8 V)
Took Module off to take in to have it check, maybe this Thursday or Friday. If bad, would like to buy it here FTEPARTS... Ignition Module - Blue / Motorcraft DY893) / (1U2Z12A199AA replaced D9VZ12A199A)

Any other thoughts or suggestions that might help please reply...

Thanks, EJay

Jun 4, 2009 | 07:39 PM

#17

fmc400

MSEE

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 10,386

Likes: 35

From: Austin, TX

You're doing a great job checking these things out; go ahead and have the module tested and post the results.

Jun 6, 2009 | 02:19 PM

#18

Ejay

New User

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 6

Likes: 0

From: Oregon

Starting Problems

Went and bought a new meter, had a bad lead on old one...
Recheck with new meter.

Distributor Connector - Orange/Purple (587 ohms)
Coil to Ground in run position (11.71v)
Module - Red/Blue in run position (12.22v)
Coil Tack to Ground with light tester and cranking motor over, tester blinks
Distributor Connector - Orange wire to Ground (no resistance)
Distributor Connector - Purple wire to Ground (no resistance)
Took module off and took into NAPA to check... checks OK, but???

Thinking of buying Module and pickup-coil from FTEPARTSGUY.COM
but they are not taking orders at this time... any thoughts why?

Anyone with thoughts or suggestions that might help, please reply...

Thanks, EJay

Jun 6, 2009 | 03:25 PM

#19

fmc400

MSEE

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 10,386

Likes: 35

From: Austin, TX

The blinking light is excellent. That means your module is trying to fire the coil, so for now it's reasonable to assume your module and pickup are in proper working order. The resistance numbers you provided (including the open circuit readings you saw) are in range as well. Let's check the coil. Remove the horse-shoe connector on the coil, and do the following tests with your meter:

1. Measure the resistance between the BATT and TACH terminals of the coil (primary winding). It should be about 1 ohm, a little more is acceptable, but certainly not much less.

2. Measure the resistance between the BATT terminal and the large center terminal (secondary winding). It should be around 10 Kohms (10,000 ohms). There is more freedom here.

Let us know the results.

Jun 7, 2009 | 03:54 PM

#20

Ejay

New User

Joined: May 2009

Posts: 6

Likes: 0

From: Oregon

Starting Problems

Well, I did what you suggested...
I took the horse shoe connector off of the coil and checked those connections.

BATT & TACH - (1.6 ohms)
BATT & Lg. Center Terminal - (8.6K ohms)

I noticed when I removed the horse shoe connector that the terminals were tarnished, took emery cloth and cleaned connections but also I have a tach mounted on steering column that the wire went to the tach side terminal. I left that wire off (did not reconnect) hooked everything back up...she fired up and ran good. I don't know whether the tach wire or tarnished terminal was the problem, I took her for a 12 mile test drive with cell phone to a friends house and back... Ran good!

I have to Thank smc400 & Bullitt390 for helping me. With out you guys I probably would have started throwing money at it.

A little bit about my pickup... 1976 F150 4x4 S/W Box w/360 A/T with shift kit & cooler, winch & Buck Shot Mudders, I have owned since 1977.

Thanks again guys, EJay

Jun 7, 2009 | 06:49 PM

#21

fmc400

MSEE

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 10,386

Likes: 35

From: Austin, TX

Awesome, glad to hear it worked out!

Jun 7, 2009 | 07:35 PM

#22

Bullitt390

Certified Thread Hijacker

Joined: Aug 2001

Posts: 14,441

Likes: 59

You have to give a ton of credit to yourself. Not only did you work your way thru the problem, but you may have helped a lot of other guys that are casual observers.

Josh

Jun 11, 2009 | 04:11 PM

#23

Gottalovethemf100s

Thread Starter

New User

Joined: Feb 2009

Posts: 20

Likes: 0

From: Deep Gap, NC

Do Not Know What I Am Doing

Could someone please post detailed instructions with pictures of the horseshoe connector and where the tach wire runs. Thanks

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Jun 11, 2009 | 06:44 PM

#24

fmc400

MSEE

Joined: Apr 2004

Posts: 10,386

Likes: 35

From: Austin, TX

No picture necessary. The horse-shoe connector is the piece that connects to the coil. When you remove it, it looks like a horse-shoe. The TACH wire is green, it runs off the negative side of the coil (called TACH TEST) and runs up to the Duraspark module. All the TACH signal is, is just the switched ground from the box. To fire the coil, the box grounds this signal briefly, then lets go of it which fires the coil. It's the same thing as breaker points on an older setup, only this time it's a power transistor doing the work.