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Tech tells me this morning that I have an Excessive draw on my batteries while engine is off. He said its killing my batteries, ultimately killing my FICM. I've owned the truck for over 2.5 years and have added nothing electrical except for the Prodigy brake controller since day 1. Does anyone know how I can run down a short or draw? Is there a test with a voltmeter or battery tester and oulling fuses of some sort that anyone knows of? If there is a draw and its killing my batteries...they make it sound like the next failed FICM will not be covered under warranty. The dealer wanted $100 to determine what the cause was...maybe money well spent, but if the problem is caused by Ford's design and ultimately killing the FICM, why should I pay them to tell me what is killing their part under warranty? You would think they would want to resolve this to avoid another replacement. BTW, I was reflashed with the inductive heat Flash....since I apparantly already have a current draw on my batteries, won't this make matters worse? Will I suffer from this new flash, or is it a good thing? Kinda miss the buzzing..lol.
Seems to me that with the warrenty work you have had done and the new FICM, that the dealer would just look for the "battery drain" problem as part of the work they should be doing.
If your truck is stock except for a brake controller, I think you have a good reason to speak with the dealer and have them and Ford figure it out at their cost. I assume that the main power lead to the brake controller shuts off when the ignition is off... so it sounds like some other "issue" that the dealer should run down.
Now... if they say that $100.00 is all that it will cost you... I may be inclined to pay it and really verify what thier doing and how they actually fix after they find the problem??? To pay them $100 is only about 1-1/2 hours of work... and I am not sure if you could find the problem on your own in that little of time????
Unless.... they want to charge you $100 and all they do is connect up the computer to the OBD port and it tells them.... then they charge you to fix the actual problem on top of the $100 - ouch!!!!
Spend the $100 for them to tell you what the problem is Probably your best option. Saves you the work and if they find the issue they should be fixing it under that $100 payment.
Thanks...all great input...I'm going to see if it's some parasitic thing I can find...if not, I'm sure their $100 diagnostic charge still applies. We'll see.
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