Thinking about spray bomb job, got some questions
#1
Thinking about spray bomb job, got some questions
Hey guys, thinking about spray painting my truck, but i dont want it to look crappy, so ive got some questions:
-Sanding: Can i use a belt sander, or is an orbital the only way to go? Only reason i ask is i already have a belt sander
-Primer: How Many Coats?
-Going w/ flat black, how many coats?
-Clear Coat top finish: Should i do it, how many coats if so?
Whats a good amt of time to wait between coats?
anybody have any idea just how many cans it takes to do 1 coat?
Sorry about all the questions, but the only thing ive ever painted is my valve covers lol
-Sanding: Can i use a belt sander, or is an orbital the only way to go? Only reason i ask is i already have a belt sander
-Primer: How Many Coats?
-Going w/ flat black, how many coats?
-Clear Coat top finish: Should i do it, how many coats if so?
Whats a good amt of time to wait between coats?
anybody have any idea just how many cans it takes to do 1 coat?
Sorry about all the questions, but the only thing ive ever painted is my valve covers lol
#2
If you dont want it to look crappy, skip the spray bombs and buy a paint gun. If you use spraybombs, it will end up looking splotchy. Plus till you buy enough spray bombs to paint the whole truck, you can buy cheap auto paint.
No you cannot use a belt sander (you will probably sand thru the metal) A DA or random orbit sander is the way to go.
If no body work is needed, then one good coat of self etching primer, followed by a good acrylic primer will be good enough. You must let the self etching cure first, sand that with 320 grit, reprime, sand with 320 or 400 grit, then paint. As for painting, when using a paint gun I always shoot 3 coats of color, followed by 3 coats of clear(sometimes 4 coats) If you use real auto paint, clear coat is up to you as long as you use the right base coat (enamel, laquer)
As for time between coats, your gonna have to follow the directions on the can, each manuf is different, as is each type of paint product. When painting with real automotive paints I usually wait at least one day after painting self etching primer to work it. The acrylic primer can be worked same day, its just gonna depend on temp and humidity, and thickness of primer.
No you cannot use a belt sander (you will probably sand thru the metal) A DA or random orbit sander is the way to go.
If no body work is needed, then one good coat of self etching primer, followed by a good acrylic primer will be good enough. You must let the self etching cure first, sand that with 320 grit, reprime, sand with 320 or 400 grit, then paint. As for painting, when using a paint gun I always shoot 3 coats of color, followed by 3 coats of clear(sometimes 4 coats) If you use real auto paint, clear coat is up to you as long as you use the right base coat (enamel, laquer)
As for time between coats, your gonna have to follow the directions on the can, each manuf is different, as is each type of paint product. When painting with real automotive paints I usually wait at least one day after painting self etching primer to work it. The acrylic primer can be worked same day, its just gonna depend on temp and humidity, and thickness of primer.
#3
A made-in-Taiwan spray gun won't cost much, or if you hit the old car swap meets you might pick up a real spray gun for cheap (like the old DeVilbiss gun I got for a buck). You'll need a viscosity cup to judge how much to thin paint. I got one from Sears a long time ago, but a big paint store or body shop supply store should have them.
If you want a flat finish, John Deere "Blitz Black" is popular. I got some from the local John Deere tractor dealership parts counter.
If you want a flat finish, John Deere "Blitz Black" is popular. I got some from the local John Deere tractor dealership parts counter.
#4
#5
I agree with not trying to paint it with rattle cans. Although it is possible and others on here have came out with some good results, even they will tell you there are other ways. I painted mine flat black with John Deere Blitz Black also. It was only about $28 for a gallon and $15 for the thinner. I know my paint job is no where near perfect, but it was my first time and I did it with a $130 craftsman compressor and a $20 paint gun. I know I couldn't have done as good with rattle cans.
With the gallon I have two coats on mine and still have some left.
The only problem with the Blitz Black is if you live in California, you can't buy it in California.
With the gallon I have two coats on mine and still have some left.
The only problem with the Blitz Black is if you live in California, you can't buy it in California.
#6
All the above is sound advice, and I totally agree. But if you decide to do it anyway, not all rattle cans are created equal. The spray patterns on the cheap cans are crap. Duplicolor spray's the best patterns I have used and the paint is a touch better. I do some interior painting with them with good results.
#7
I don't totally agree with all the comments above. I have a rattlecan job that I get LOTS of compliments on. However, I stripped to bare metal, wetsanded, and generally put in lots of work. It isn't splotchy or runny, but the truth is that I could have sprayed with a gun for MUCH less. I think I used about 60 cans.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
darmento
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
23
01-15-2016 09:13 AM
swolh
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
09-12-2015 11:52 AM
skinnyman
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
04-12-2005 11:00 PM